"Don’t trust the time-tables as to there being a restaurant-car on any train southward from Paris (except the Calais–Méditerranée); bring a tea-basket with you and be prepared to grab things from the buffets at the Gare de Lyon and at Marseilles, or you may go foodless."
Practical Hints
As to the probable cost of a visit to the Riviera, I have compiled two estimates, based partly on my own experiences and partly on information gathered from friends who have come out. The first is compiled with an eye to economy, but provides for a modest share in the less expensive amusements; I have put the cost of pension at frs. 35 per day, not because it is impossible to find it at a lower figure, but because that should be obtainable anywhere without difficulty.
In the second I have taken a more liberal view; although one cannot live at the best hotels for £1 a day (including extras), at that price good accommodation and excellent food could be obtained even last season.
ESTIMATE A.
|
|||
£
|
s.
|
d.
|
|
Second Class Return .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
9
|
0
|
0
|
Expense on the journeys .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
2
|
0
|
0
|
14 days Pension at frs. 35, plus 50 percent cent. for extras, taxes and tips .. .. .
|
6
|
6
|
0
|
Sundry Expenditure at frs. 25 per day .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
2
|
18
|
0
|
Gaieties, Excursions, etc., frs. 600 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
5
|
0
|
0
|
25
|
4
|
0
|
|
For 28 days, double the last three times
|
14
|
4
|
0
|
£39
|
8
|
0
|
|
ESTIMATE B.
|
|||
£
|
s.
|
d.
|
|
First Class Return .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
12
|
10
|
0
|
Expense on the journeys .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
3
|
0
|
0
|
14 days Pension at frs. 80, plus 50 percent cent. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
14
|
0
|
0
|
Sundry Expenditure at frs. 50 per day .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
6
|
0
|
0
|
Gaieties, Excursions, etc., .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
|
15
|
0
|
0
|
£50
|
1.0
|
0
|
|
Hotels on the Riviera have tended more and more to the residential type, and most of them decline between Christmas and the end of February to make terms for room and breakfast only. The rule is full pension–breakfast, luncheon and dinner. (Afternoon tea is always an extra, except at pensions run by English people.) If you want to go about and see what there is to be seen, this rather cramps your style unless a little extra expenditure is a matter of no importance. The hotel wil provide you with a parcel-luncheon whenever you wish, of course; but restaurant-meals mean paying twice over.
There is a class of hotel which gives room and breakfast only, called meublés, and some of them are clean and respectable. In a mueblé you are free to do as you like; there is nothing to prevent you from picnicking in your room if the fancy takes you. Indeed, that may be the only alternative to going out or fasting; but in many instances there is a restaurant in the building. The disadvantage of being in a mueblé is that it makes you something of an Ishmaelite; there is seldom any lounge accommodation to speak of, and few of the guests use what there is. Nor are all the female guests of the sort your wife would care to make friends with–though, for that matter, wherever you stay on the Riviera your neighbour in the next room may be one of those boofer ladies.
The problem has quite a different aspect before Christmas and after the beginning of March, when it is not difficult to arrange for a room and breakfast, or mi-pension, in a residential hotel, with a comfortable lounge, etc. (Mi-pension means without the luncheon.)
The distinction between hotels and boarding-houses is slender; most of the so-called Pensions hold licenses, and are virtually hotels.
A list of hotels in any particular place may be obtained by writing to the local Syndicat d'Initiative and enclosing an international postal coupon (which may be obtained from any post office) for 3d., or 6d. if you ask for a town-plan as well.* A list of hotels in all the places, large and small, can be obtained from the Fédération des Syndicats d'Initiative de la Côte d'Azur, 2 rue Deloye, Nice; the coupon should be for 1s., and for that, if you ask them, you will get a copy of the "Carte Panoramique," a sort of bird's-eye view of the entire coast with exaggerated snow-mountains in the background–most picturesque.
* For Monte Carlo, write to the Bureau des Renseignements. There is no Syndicat d'Initiative.
Minimum prices en pension are given in the list of hotels, also complicated decimals about taxes. The short cut to the probable actual cost is the same as in regard to restaurant meals–add 50 per cent. This will cover a slightly higher charge than the lowest rate, bath (if an extra), taxes, tips, and meals. Ch. c. in these lists means central heating; eau cour., or ch. et f., that there are fitted wash-basins in the bedrooms.
Even if you have an hotel well recommended from recent personal experience–the only sort of recommendation that is worth anything–I advise against booking rooms in advance. If you do so, the hotel-keeper will almost certainly take advantage of the fact by giving you the poorest accommodation vacant at the money, and it is always on the cards that there may be none vacant. This might be a blessing in disguise, because you stand a far better chance of getting good quarters if you go round on arrival and bargain. That is what I advise you to do. There is a risk between the 15th of January and the end of February; the place may be quite full, and it is just possible that you might have to go on to some small place near by, where rooms could be booked by telephone: but this seldom happens; there is a great deal more cry than wool about visitors sleeping in bathrooms. You run the risk for what it is, anyway; the hotel-keeper won't keep rooms for you when that state of affairs exists.
This advice represents the view of several people connected with the Syndicats d'Initiative whom I have consulted. They say they get so many complaints from visitors who have booked in advance, and not got what they had a right to expect, that it would be better for both sides if the practice were discontinued.
An irritating trick of some of the hotel-keeping fraternity is to make a price and then raise it as soon as you are comfortably settled in. There is normally an advance in January on December rates, and this you could ascertain beforehand; but I have often heard of prices being raised arbitrarily because an hotel was full and there were applications for rooms which could not be met. By the way, you need never have any scruple about changing your quarters if the fancy takes you; it is so commonly done on the Riviera that the hotel-keepers have an arrangement about it.
As I have said some unkind things about the majority of the Riviera hotel-keepers, it is only fair to add that in spite of their shortcomings they almost always do a very good best to make their guests comfortable, that they are generally quite obliging in the way of meeting small personal predilections, and that there is a considerable minority who are not only perfectly honourable but go out of their way to ensure that there shall be no just cause for complaint.
The least uncomfortable mode of travelling is by Dover-Calais and one of the through expresses ("Calais-Méditerranée"); it is popularly supposed that the luxe trains, composed of sleeping-cars–the lower beds being seats by day–and a dining-car, offer the best accommodation. Personally I don't think so; if you can afford a salon lit, which is a sort of small room with armchairs and beds for two, three or four, you get far more air. An intermediate form of accommodation is a couchette, one of four berths in a first-class compartment, the two lower ones being the seats. The second-class compartments hold eight, and are apt to get very stuffy during the night if any of the passengers are French, because the French have a horror of open windows–or even an open door, on account of the draught from the corridor.
Between the 1st of December and the 15th of March it is wise to reserve the necessary seats as long beforehand as possible. The railway companies will not book them until a fortnight before the date, but the agencies have an arrangement by which they can do so earlier.
A point you need to be particular about examined. If depends upon your destination. As a rule, luggage registered through to any of the larger places is examined at the destination, but the regulations change so much that one never knows. Luggage registered through to Monte Carlo is examined at Monaco, the next station. Hand luggage is always examined at the port of debarkation–Calais or Boulogne, etc.
It is as well to make sure of your meals en route. Places can be reserved in restaurant cars, with the advantage that you can choose your hour; if you leave the question until you get on the train, you may find that all the seats for the earlier services are taken up, and it is not pleasant to have to wait until nine or half-past for dinner when travelling, especially if you are a bad sailor and have missed luncheon. Reserving also prevents you from falling into one of the little traps which await the unwary. There are not restaurant cars on all the trains southward from Paris; the clerk at the agency may glibly assure you that there is one on the train you are going to travel by, and when he tries to book you a seat find that there isn't. In that case the best thing you can do is to dine at the Gare de Lyon; the restaurant is on the first floor, facing the end of the departure platform.
Ladies alone, and unaccustomed to foreign travel, will find it a convenience to book through a tourist agency for a date on which one of its men is going to Marseilles. This is especially useful in connection with passing the Customs. I have heard Lunn's men well spoken of.
It is advisable to insure your luggage. For the last year or so there have not been as many robberies as formerly, the principal gang operating having been rounded up; but it is better to be on the safe side. Policies are obtainable from all tourist agencies or at the departure station.
If you are going to stay in one place all the tie, the best arrangement about money is to tell your bankers to instruct a local bank to cash your cheques; if you intend to move about, take travellers' cheques–for rather more than you think you will require, if you are as others. You will save a good deal of time if you stipulate that the paying bank must be British; the system in the French banks necessitates almost endless waiting.
As to your packing,
take such things as you would wear at home in spring or autumn: light summer
clothing is a death-trap on the Riviera. In addition, you need a heavy coat.
Clothes and personal
effects of that kind are not liable to duty. In theory, most of the other
things which people take with them are – cameras and field-glasses, for
instance; but as a rule the customs officers pass all such things, and are only
keen about cigars, cigarettes, and tobacco. Put whatever you have in that way
in your hand baggage, and when you open the bag in the custom-house, place it
on top. The nominal allowance free of duty is twenty-five cigarettes or about the same weight of tobacco in
another form; if you have more, you will be liable to pay at a rate which works
out roughly at twice the value in England. There is no reason for bringing more
than you require for the journey; the Riviera is not exactly a desert island,
and even if you cannot get your favourite brand of smoke, you can get something
near. But you can’t get decent matches.
When you get out of
the train on arrival, don’t forget to put
on your coat. If you go to look at rooms before settling in, take a warm
scarf as well.
Should the meublé idea appeal to you, look round in
the vicinity of that station. French commercial hotels generally leave
something to be desired in the way cleanliness and brightness, but it is
possible that you may find an exception, and in this class of hotel there is
usually a restaurant with moderate prices.
In this connection,
be careful about taking rooms in a meublé
which is not listed by the Syndicat
d’Initiative, because some of these places really cater for a special class
of trade–very temporary guests! The cabman is the lad to put you wise.
How far you can
bargain depends on whether it is early or late in the season, and whether the
season is a good or bad one. There are minor things you can always bargain
about, such as porridge and bacon-and-eggs for breakfast, and the charge for
baths. I object to paying for my cold tub every morning, and rarely fail to get
my way. Up to Christmas, and after the beginning of March, the hotel-keepers
are generally inclined to be amenable, even in the best hotels.
Late in the
afternoon it is not always easy to be sure as to the aspect of a room. Remember
that locally “plein midi” means
facing the sea, not “full south.”
If you get stuck,
tell the cocher to go to the Syndicat d’Initiative. He probably won’t
know where it is, so have the address handy. The personnel of the Syndicat offices are most obliging; they will
telephone all round the town, and if necessary to near-by places, to find
possible quarters for you.
Don’t try to do too
much at first. The electricity in the air tempts to over-exertion, which may
result in sleeplessness. Let the climate do its work; when your body is attuned
to it, you can do anything.
Banking hours are
9–12 and 2–4, except on Saturdays (9–12). The banks are shut on Sundays, public
holidays (much the same as in England), and religious holidays, about which you
need to be wary.
Post Office hours
are from 8 to 7 on ordinary days, 8–10 on Sundays and holidays. Stamps for
letters can also be obtained from all tobacconists (“Tabac”). Letters to Great
Britain (and most other countries) require fr. 1.50 up to 20 grammes (about ¾
oz.); post cards 90c.; telegrams fr. 1.25 per word, with a
minimum of frs. 7.50c
The most useful paper on the coast is the Eclaireur de Nice, which publishes
scraps of general news in English, but is chiefly valuable for its chronicle of
coming local events. The Paris
Continental Daily Mail of the previous day is on sale everywhere first
thing in the morning; the London papers of the same date reach Hyères about noon, and later as you go eastward–about
half-past three at Menton. Most of the casinos put up Havas telegrams every
evening, especially those relating to the money and stock markets.
The best local guides are the Diamant series,
obtainable English or French at frs. 6. If the Diamant is out of print,
the next best are the Guides Pol (frs. 4).
According to the law, café-keepers are
obliged to post up a price list; it is generally a conspicuous object, and it
will pay you to consult it, and check the waiter’s arithmetic. It is not fair
to assume when he makes a mistake in his own favour that he is trying to cheat;
the poor man may be a native of the country, and no native can reckon. Their
mistakes are just as often against themselves as the other way about.
Don’t be afraid of airing your French, even
if it is insular. East of Cannes many of the inhabitants know very little, and
speak badly (they talk a dialect-Italian among themselves). So you need not be
shy of making mistakes, or surprised if you are not at once understood.
The auto-mails, which run all along the coast
from Cannes eastwards, are a great convenience; they are saloon-cars, holding
between twelve and twenty, and as a rule quite comfortable to ride in. The
trams dodder, and jolt so badly as to give one a headache; the trains also
dodder, are often very unpunctual when they come from the direction of
Marseilles (from east to west) it is necessary to notice the headings of the
columns in which the times of possible trains are found. If a train is marked
“Omnibus” you are all right; but if it has a letter (A,B,C, etc.), then probably you will not be able to go by
it, because it is reserved for long-distance travellers. There are no taxis, in
the ordinary sense of the term, except at Nice (see Appendix). Elsewhere the
motor-cars which display a card bearing the word are simply to be hired
according to a local scale, the charges depending on distance. It is well to
make sure about the price beforehand, and how long you are entitled to stay in
the place to which you are going. A ten per cent. tip up to frs. 20 is usual.
Otherwise, the Riviera clings to its victorias (voitures). There are all
sorts of complicated regulations about zones and distances, which vary in the
different places; life not being long enough to study that sort of thing I have
made my own rule, which works quite well, and is based on essential justice.
For ten minutes’ drive in a one-horse cab I pay frs. 5; in a two-horse cab,
frs. 7-8; and more in a rough proportion for longer distances: when I want a
cab by the hour, at the rate of frs. 20 per hour, so informing the cocher
beforehand; but I usually give him frs. 5 extra, whereupon he grins and thanks
me. Station cabmen generally expect more, and one often has to give it,
especially in the height of the season–frs. 10-15 even for a short journey, and
more if there is much luggage. It should be remembered that for two-thirds of
the year they earn very little.
The hotel servants are sometimes so
over-worked that they can only just manage to get through what they have to do
by scamping it, but when this is not the case they are usually civil and very
obliging. The best way to get on good terms with them is to adopt the
democratic French fashion of recognizing that they are human beings. A “bon
jour” in the morning, and “bon soir” in the evening count for a good deal, and
in return they will willingly do various little things in the way of
lady’s-maiding or valeting which are not really part of their work. When they
belong to the country, as many of them do, they are generally always disposed
to like the English, and are almost childlike in the frankness with which,
given the least encouragement, they show it. But you need not be alarmed,
madam, if the chambermaid remarks that she loves your husband very much; it
will only mean that she thinks him a good fellow. When you have to find fault
with her do it quickly and then let it be over; they weep copiously after being
scolded, and the next time they appear, eye you doubtfully, like dogs.
As to shopping. You, sir, cannot buy anything
fit to be seen in, except possibly a hat; for underneath, braces and cotton
underclothing, which are French specialities. So we put you in the discard.
You, madam, may with advantage replenish your wardrobe in Nice, except in
stockings (contrary to a common belief, French stockings are dear and
rubbishy). If you read what follows carefully, and persevere in well shopping,
you may return home several months ahead of the fashions, and even–this between
ourselves–make a trifle to set off against your expenses by selling at a profit
the things you didn’t really need but couldn’t refrain from buying because they
were so just it.
In the shops which cater specially for the
visitors, and small shops in side-streets, it is seldom necessary to pay the
price asked. These shopkeepers are absolutely untrustworthy. If they show you
something which is nearly, but not quite, what you want, with fluent assurances
that the exact thing will be forthcoming in a day or two, don’t believe them.
Don’t trust them in any way. If you cannot take your purchases with you, name
an hour when you will be in, and say you will pay on delivery; and before you
do pay make sure that you have got what you bought. Otherwise you may be landed
with two odd shoes, or something of that kind. (I know of a case in which that
happened, and it was impossible to get any satisfaction.) In the departmental
stores, and the larger shops in main streets which cater for the inhabitants,
you need have no fear of such tricks, and as a rule the articles are
price-ticketed. But it is never wise to put any reliance on assurances as to
the kind or quality of materials, size or fit, or the possibility of supplying
what you want subsequently.
Insist on having a bill for anything you buy
which is wholly or partly made of silk, or anything which looks like silk; and
if it is said not to be, have the material stated. This applies even to
articles with silk linings, such as bags (a Riviera specialty). Keep the bills,
and when you return to England have them ready, so that you can produce them to
the customs officer if necessary. The duty is thirty-three per cent. ad
valorem–in plain English, a third of the value–and the bills have a
soothing effect. So, of course, has a pleasant smile. If you attempt to smuggle
your purchases in, or don’t tell the truth in reply to questions, and are found
out, burst into tears and blame your husband.
(The other things which the British Customs
are keen about are :–
Tobacco, cigars and cigarettes.
Spirits, liqeurs and wine.
Scent and toilet waters.
Lace and embroidery.
Clocks and watches.
Cameras.
Field and opera glasses.)
While I am engaged with you, madam, let me
warn you that the hairdressers are a thieving lot, and that you need not pay
more than frs. 10 for cutting, shampooing, waving or manicure (each, ofcourse).
This is the tariff at the best establishment in Monte Carlo. Monsieur should
not pay more than frs. 5 for having his hair cut and frs. 3 for being shaved,
these being the prices fixed by the Hairdressers’ Union.
It is not worth while to buy anything to send
home, tempting as are the little baskets of mandarin oranges with bits of leaf
and blossom, to say nothing of the marrons glacés, nougat, friandises,
and jellied fruits–all delicious when fresh. Volubly as the shopkeeper may
assure you that they will arrive in a few days and in perfect condition, they
almost certainly won’t.
Every shop or bar with the sign “Tabac” does
not stock imported brands of tobacco and cigarettes, or only a few of them;
those which stock a fair assortment put up “Tabac de Luxe,” do “Luxe-Tabac.” In
pipe-tobacco the list includes Dunhill’s Virginia and Standard Mixture, Wills’
Three Castles, Capstan, Player’s Navy Cut, and Craven Mixture. In cigarettes,
Abdulla, State Express, Craven “A” and Black Cat, Grey’s, Army Club, Osborne
(the Royal size at frs. 10 for twenty are excellent value), Teofani, and
various brands of Muratti’s and Wills’. As to prices, they are fixed half-yearly
according to the exchange, on a basis which brings them out about 20-25 per
cent. more than in England. In high-class cigars the best value to my mind is
the Half-a-Corona at frs. 6.50c., and of the cheaper varieties, Campeone,
a very mild Italian cigar at frs. 2. The mildest of the French pipe-tobaccos is
Caporal doux (paquet vert) at frs. 3.75c. for 40 grammes (1½ oz.); and of the cigarettes Gitanes papier maïs,
at frs. 4 (twenty). Other popular brands with English people of an
economical disposition are Sultan (Turkish) at frs. 5, Zerga (Algerian) at frs.
4.20c., Fashion, (Virginian) at frs. 2 (ten), and Macedoine, an Italian brand,
at frs. 5.40.
Don’t
bother about permis de séjour, as to
which a ridiculous amount of fuss has been made in the Press. When you settle
into your hotel, a form will be given you to fill up. Nothing else is necessary
for two months, and then if you take my advice you will refer the matter to the
hotel manager. The only exception is at Monte Carlo; if your hotel is in the
principality–a few of the hotels are over the border, in France–the head porter
will ask for your passport when you arrive, and if you stay longer than a
fortnight you are supposed to go in person to the Commissariat de Police and ask for a permis de séjour, which will cost you 50c. I have never been able
to find out what happens to persons who neglect this: it may be nothing.
Motorists who bring their own cars appear to be so well catered for by
the R.A.C. and A.A. that I can tell them nothing, except that if they get
ditched and there are any soldiers about, they need not look further for help;
and that if they take their cars to Nice for the Fête de St. Christophe, they can have them blessed free of charge in the
Place St. Hèléne, along with hundreds of others. If you don’t bring your
own car to France you can hire one without a driver, in Nice or Cannes at any
rate; no doubt the system will be extended. It is advisable to have an R.A.C.
licence, as otherwise there are formalities to be gone through which take three
or four days. (See Appendix.)
If you are returning after the middle
Februay, it is wise to book the necessary places in the train to a fortnight
before. This can be done at the station–Bureau des Renseignements in the
larger stations–for the ordinary trains; and for trains de luxe, either
at the local office of the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons Lits, or at a
tourist agency.
With regard to tipping in hotels, as rule ten
per cent. is added to the bill. If not, the best way is to distribute it
weekly.
CHAPTER XI
The Riviera in Summer
Every year more and more visitors come to the
Riviera in summer. There is no drawback to a visit at any time between April
and November, except the mosquitoes, which are no worse than in many parts of
the south of England, though I confess that they are partial to fresh blood. It
is tropically hot during the middle of the day in July and August, but the
early mornings are perfect, and the evening hours generally pleasant; I have
felt the heat far more at night in England during hot spells than I have ever
done on the Riviera. But the climate is far from bracing; there is a good deal
of close weather, when the clouds hang on the mountains; and in May-June
occasional visitations from sirocco, the enervating south-west wind that
brings Sahara dust and deposits it in a fine layer over everything.
Nevertheless, our summer visitors seem to enjoy themselves, and most of them
profess the intention of coming again; some even become so enthusiastic that
they buy land and build bungalows, as I hear Mr. Gilbert Frankau and Miss
Lillah McCarthy have done lately. Certainly, when the summer is cold and wet at
home, it may be worth while to undergo the discomfort of a long journey for the
sake of the certainty of fine weather, of being able to luxuriate in a really
warm sea and bask blissfully on the shingle for half the day, filling in the
early morning and evening hours with tennis or a run in a motor-car or
motor-boat, and dancing in the open air o’ nights. These things are rendered
all the more enjoyable by the absence of a crowd; when in Deauville or Dinard
it is hardly possible to get a room, you will find a welcome and plenty of choice
on the Riviera. Some of the best hotels
are open in all the larger places, and in the smaller places west of Cannes
more accommodation is available than in the winter. Rates are about two-thirds
of the winter rates, as a rule, and the temptations to spend money being
limited, a holiday would cost less than in England if it were not for the
railway fare.
If I were going to the Riviera between June
and September, and wanted a quiet time, I should choose one of the smaller
places between Hyères and Cannes, or St. Raphaël;
but those who do not object to a relaxing climate might do much worse than
Juan-les-Pins, which has the advantage of being close to Nice, where there are
always some evening entertainments.
Of the
other winter centres, Hyères, Nice,
Beaulieu, and Menton are (from my point of view) too hot, and at none of them
is the bathing really good. In May-June and September-November I should
unhesitatingly choose Monte Carlo because of its comparative liveliness. The
casino goes on all the year round; both the Hôtel de Paris and the Café de
Paris are open, and the casino orchestra plays afternoons and evenings on the
Terrace, so that in the centre of the life of the place there is little
difference. The tennis courts at La Festa are open as usual, and nine holes of
the golf course at Mont Agel. The bathing is not very good because there is no beach, and because there
is no beach, and because the water is none too clean at Larvotto, the official
bathing-place; but the latter defect may be remedied when the new Country Club
is open, for those who can afford the summer subscription.
There is one through train (Calais-Méditerranée)
daily from May 15th to November 15th, and in this all baggage is examined en
route (in the train). Next best is the eleven a.m. from Victoria (first and
second class). But by this or any other train (except the Calais –
Méditerranée) it is necessary to be careful as to where the Customs
examination takes place. Avoid having it at Marseilles if you can, because
there the luggage is turned out of the train in which you are travelling and
carried about a quarter of a mile away, whither you have to follow it; before
the examination is concluded your train has left as a rule, which means that
you have to spend most of the day at Marseilles (rather hotter than the puit of
Tophet in July-August) and don’t get to your destination till night.
(NOTE.–When coming to Monte Carlo one can
secure the examination being at Calais–where there is usually plenty of time–by
registering to Monaco; this comes to the same thing on arrival, no part of
Monte Carlo being more than fifteen minutes’ drive from Monaco station.)
Don’t trust the time-tables as to there being
a restaurant-car on any train southward from Paris (except the Calais–Méditerranée);
bring a tea-basket with you and be prepared to grab things from the buffets at
the Gare de Lyon and at Marseilles, or you may go foodless.
Appendix
The hotels listed are chiefly those which
quote a minimum price not over frs. 100 (see Chapter X.), the price being
indicated in brackets. There are, of course, many others, and as to boarding-houses,
comparatively few of them quote.
Except for some special reason, I have not
listed hotels among restaurants, because it goes without saying that a meal can
always be obtained, and all but the very expensive put up a menu outside;
similarly in regard to the luxe
hotels and dancing–it may be taken for granted.
The figures in brakets following the names of
restaurants represent the fixed price for lunch, or lunch and dinner (see
Chapter VI.). Occasionally I have mentioned specialities.
The Hôtel des Postes among the addresses is, of course,
the General Post Office; hotels similarly called are always de la Poste.
HYÈRES
About 25 hours from London. From Toulon about
50 minutes.
Hotels.
The
Costebelle Hotels (three, large) under the personal management of the
proprietor, have a long-established reputation of all-round excellence. The
situation is ideal.
IN THE TOWN.
Chateaubriand,
Grimm’s Park, Iles d’Or (60-80). Continental,
Metropole, Ambassadeurs (45). Du
Casino, Des Etrangers, Hesperides, Paris, De La Poste, Suisse, Beau-Sejour
(35-40).
The Golf
Hotel is some distance off; admirably situated.
OTHER HOTELS AT COSTEBELLE.
Mimosas, Montclair (35-40), Esperance.
Among the Boarding
Houses, which are numerous, the Pension
Mireille and La Roseraie, both in
the town, have been recommended to me.
BATHING.–At Almanarre (motor-bus).
MORNING WALK.–Up through the Old Town, out by
the Porte de la Souquette, left, then right, to the Hill of La Potence.
APERITIF.–Maison
Dorée, Av. Gambetta.
RESTAURANTS.–Maison Dorée (18). Marquis,
same street and price (Vin de la Croix). Castel-Pomponia
at Almanarre.
TEA ROOMS.–Victoria, Av. Des Iles d’Or. Restaurant
de l’Avenue.
COCKTAILS.–Grimm’s Bar, Av. De Belgique.
GOLF.–The
Hyères Club (in connection with the Golf Hotel).
November 10th-May 30th. 18 holes, 5,200 yards. Flat and
open. Day, frs. 40; week , frs. 170; month, frs. 375-400; season, frs. 700.
The Costebelle Club (in connection
with The Costebelle Hotels). October 20th-May 1st.
18 holes. 4,805 yards. Part flat, part undulated. Close to the sea. Rates about
the same.
TENNIS.–4 courts at the Golf Hotel.
Week, frs. 85; month, frs. 175; season, frs. 350.
5 courts at the Costebelle Hotels.
Rates about the same.
CROQUET.–6 lawns at the Golf Hotel.
The rates are the same as for Tennis.
8 lawns at the Costebelle Hotels.
BOWLING.–At the Golf Hotel. Frs. 150
for the season.
SQUASH RACKETS.–At the Costebelle Hotels.
The charges given above apply to visitors who
are not staying at the hotels to which the clubs belong: those who are
pay less.
Tennis courts are also being constructed in
the town. Apply to M. SAMARAN, Société Régionale, 23 Av. Des Iles d’Or.
CASINO.–Bd.
St. Antoine. Day, frs. 5; week, frs. 30; month, frs. 50.; season, frs. 150.
Theatre and cinema. Dance teas. Suppers. Galas on Saturdays
Special
Entertainments.
Carnival Processions.
Battle of Flowers.
Art Exhibition.
Motor Trials.
Horse Racing at Easter.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Giens. Ile de Porquerolles. Solliè (lunch at the Maurin des Maures).
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Giens. Ile de Porquerolles. Solliè (lunch at the Maurin des Maures).
AUTO-CAR
EXCURSIONS.–Calley of the Gapeau to Montrieux and on to St. Maximin. The
“Circuit des Maures.”
Useful Notes.
SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–In the Casino
building.
BRITISH BANKS.–The English Bank (R. J.
Corbett and Co.), Place des Palmiers. Crawford’s Bank, Avenue des Iles d’Or.
HOTEL DES POSTES.–4 Av. De Belgique.
AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–Bureau P.L.M., 1
Av. Gambetta
ENGLISH CHEMISTS.–Colet, Av. Alphonse-Denis.
Pustel, Av. Des Iles d’Or
BRITISH VICE-CONSUL.–Mr. Jesse Hook, at the
English Bank. 10-12 and 2-4.
CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.–At both the British
Banks.
ENGLISH DOCTOR.–W.P. Biden, 2 Av. De la
Victoire.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–Av. Godillot. 10.30. Also one
at Costebelle.
PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH.–South side of the Casino
grounds. 10.15
TURKISH BATH.–Hammam, Boul. Carnot.
LUXE-TABAC.–4 Av. Iles d’Or.
BORMES.
45 minutes from Hyères (Chemin de Fer de Provence).
An old town among woods, two miles from the
sea. Mild climate (similar to Hyères).
One hotel, the Belle Vue, and a
pension, the Beau-Site.
LE LAVANDOU.
One hour from Hyères on the same line. On the sea. A good beach. Woods.
Hotels.
Aiguebelle
(40). Iles d’Or, Grand (30-35). Mediterranée, Monte-Carlo, Terminus
(20-25).
PENSIONS. – Villa Louise, Les Hirondelles, Le Mimosas.
PENSIONS. – Villa Louise, Les Hirondelles, Le Mimosas.
CAVALAIRE
Two hours from Hyéres on the same line. A
fine beach. Pine woods.
Hotels.
Surmer (60, quite a good restaurant. Grand, Lido, Normandy (45). De La Plage, Des Bains (40). De Cavalaire (30).
PENSIONS.–Beasuséjour
(45). Martel (30).
At La Croix, a mile-and-a-half from the sea, De Pardigon (45).
NOTE.–This place must not be confused with Cavaliére, a hamlet near Le Lavandou,
which has a halt on the line.
ST. TROPEZ.
3 hours 20 minutes from Hyères and 2 hours 35 minutes from St. Rafaël by the same lines.
(See Chapter II.) The old town is very
picturesque, and the surroundings charming.
Hotels.
Sube, De
La Plage, Coste (35). Sporting Club, Mediterranée (30). Augier,
Fernand (25).
The Local Fetes (“Les Bravades”), May 16th-18th, date back about 400 years, and have retained more of the Provençal character than most of these affairs.
ST. MAXIME.
About 1
hour from St. Rafaël,
on the same line. (See Chapter II.).
CASINO.–Open December 15th-May 1st and July 1st-September 15th. Entrance frs. 3.
Restaurant (20).
The Bathing Establishment is commodious and well fitted up.
Hotels.
Grand
Hotel Beauvallon (100), Grand,
Mimosas, Commerce (35), Splendid
(30). Terminus, Du Midi (20).
PENSION.–Charles
(25).
MUEBLE.–De
La Plage.
RESTAURANTS.–Hermitage (18); pâté de gibier. Miramar (same price).
ST. RAPHAËL.
About 23½
hours from London. 1 hour from Cannes. (See Chapter II.)
Hotels and Boarding Houses.
Beau Rivage, Continental,
De La Plage (60). Grand, Du Parc (50). Des Myrtes, Hermitage, Algues, Villa
Lafayette, Villa Joyeuse, Les Orangers, Villa Alice (40). Central, Moderne, Select (35). Touring, Azur (30).
MUEBLES.–Excelsior, Terminus, Mouvel.
AT VALESCURE.
Du Golf
(80). Coirier (70). Des Anglais (50).
BATHING.–Next to the Réserve Restaurant.
BATHING.–Next to the Réserve Restaurant.
MORNING
WALK.–Along the front to the Santa Lucia park; may be prolonged to Bouloris and
back by the upper road.
APERITIF.–Café des Bains.
RESTAURANTS.–Casino, Réserve
(25). The Rabbit Bar (steaks).
TEA
ROOMS.–Taylor’s, rue Charles-Gounod. Court, rue Jules-Barbier.
DANCE-TEA.–Casino.
COCKTAIL.–Rabbit Bar (Rabbit cocktail, very dry, frs. 6).
DANCE-DINNER.–Casino (30). Hotel Beau-Rivage.
GOLF.–At
Valescure, in connection with the Golf
Hotel. 3 miles. Motor-bus from the station yard. Day, frs. 30; week, frs.
130; month, frs. 330; season, (December 1st-April 30th), frs. 600. 18 holes.
4,950 yards. Bogey 74. A hill course. Restaurant at the Dormy House, and 16
bedrooms. Board.
TENNIS.–6 courts at the Golf Club.
Day, frs. 20; week, frs. 70; month, frs. 200; season, frs. 450. 4 courts at the
St. Raphaël L.T.C., Av. Des
Chevrefeuilles. Week, frs. 50; month, frs. 75; season, frs. 375. Apply to W. F.
King (see below).
SHORT
EXCURSIONS.–Fréjus (ruins of a Roman arena, aqueduct, etc.). Mont Vinaigre.
AUTO-CAR
EXCURSIONS.–Cannes, via Fréjus and les Adrets, return by the coast road
(“Corniche d’Or.”). The “Circuit des Maures.”
CASINO.–December 15th-April 15th. Day, frs.
2.50c; week, frs 10; month, frs. 30; season, frs. 80. Also open Jul
20th-September 20th (frs. 50) Sliding roof. Luminous dancing-floor. American
bar. Theatre. Pleasant little cinema. Gala dinners Tuesdays and Fridays
(40-50).
Special Entertainments.
Battle
of Flowers.
Venetian
Fête.
Fair.
Tennis tournaments, February and early April.
SYNDICAT
D’INITIATIVE.–In the station square.
BRITISH
BANK.–W.F. King, rue Charles Gounod.
HOTEL
DES POSTES.–Rue Charles Gounod.
AUTO-CAR.–W.F. King, Bruère
Meynard, Garage des Bains.
ENGLISH CHEMIST.–Daumas, 3 rue Charles
Gounod.
CIRCULATING LIBRARY.–Papeterie Parisienne,
rue Charles Gounod.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–St.John’s Av. Des
Chevre-feuilles. All Saints, at Valescure.
AGAY.
15-20 minutes from St. Raphaël, on the main line. 30-40 minutes from Cannes.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels.
Roches Rouges (50). Camp Long, Du
Littoral (35). Rastel (25).
LE TRAYAS
About 30 minutes from either St. Raphaël or Cannes.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels.
Esterel
(60). Reserve (50). Gare, Lou Roucas (40).
THEOULE.
20 minutes from Cannes by rail, 35 by
motor-bus. Breezier than Agay or Le Trayas. Beach. Specially good fishing. Its
summer claim is that there are no mosquitoes.
Four or five hotels.
LA
NAPOULE.
15 minutes from Cannes by rail and 30 by
motor-bus.
Several hotels.
CANNES.
24 hours from London. 45 minutes from St. Raphaël or
Nice by the faster trains. From Nice by Auto-Mail, 1¼ hours (frs. 15).
Hotels.
On or just off the front: Edouard VII., Suisse (100). Royal (80). Augusta (50). De La Croisette
(45). Londres (40). Pavillon Royal, De La Poste, meublés.
The parts of the town specially referred to in Chapter II. Are :–
Route de Fréjus and Quartier du Riou: Pavillion (90). Canisy, Belle Plage (50). Château
La Tour, Château St. Georges,
Orangers (45). Square (40). Soleil d’ Azur (35).
Collne
de la Croix: Excelsior (70). Neva (50).
Quartier
du Petit Juas: Campestra (80). Ermitage, Volubilis (35).
Quartier
St. Nicolas: Alsace – Lorraine
(recommended). Bristol (80). Castelflor (50). Lycklama.
Quartier
La Peyrière: St. Paul (60). Belvedere
(35). Farther on, the Pension La Garde (45).
Quartier Montfleury: Geneve, Richelieu
(50). St. Dizier (45). Petit Paradis (30).
Quartier Les Gabres: Beau-Sejour (80).
Windsor (70). St. Charles (65).
MEUBLES.–Cavendish, Bd. Carnot, the
smartest on the Riviera. Double room with bathroom, frs. 60-80. Close to
station, Univers, Touringm and half-a-dozen commercial hotels.
At Le Cannet (tram, 15 minutes): Grande-Bretagne (90). Astoria (60). Des Anges, Roches Blanches (50). Heliotrope (45). Pension Rachel (38).
BATHING.–Bains de la Croisette, opposite the Carlton. Aux Flots Bleus, Promenade du Midi.
At Le Cannet (tram, 15 minutes): Grande-Bretagne (90). Astoria (60). Des Anges, Roches Blanches (50). Heliotrope (45). Pension Rachel (38).
BATHING.–Bains de la Croisette, opposite the Carlton. Aux Flots Bleus, Promenade du Midi.
APERITIF.–Achino’s, in the Galeries
Fleuries. Open in summer.
RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Ambassadeurs
(35). Armenonville. Réserve de la Croisette.
Second Division: Café de Paris (30). Rotisserie
de la Reine Pedauque, Galeries Fleuries. Relais, rue des Serbes;
quaintly fitted up in the style of a Provençal
tavern; fritto misto. Oustalet, rue
St. Honoré (similar; mixed grills). La
Cigogne, rue des Belges (Alsatian dishes and Strasbourg beer). Robert’s, rue des Serbes (poky but good
cooking).
Third
Division: Select, Bd. Lorraine (wine
included; recommended); Coq d’Or, rue
des Serbes; Chez Guy, rue
Maréchal-Pétain; all (12).
MILK
COFFEE.–Marret,Place des Iles.
TEA
ROOMS.–London House, Square Merimée
(the best tea rooms on the Riviera; crumpets). Achino’s.
DANCE-TEAS.–Casino Hall (5). Ambassadeurs (15-25). Armenonville. La Gondola, in the
Sporting building (15). Aux Flots Bleus.
COCKTAILS.–Rendezvous, rue
Bivouac-Napoléon.
DANCE –
DINNERS. – For exhibition dances: Ambassadeurs,
Armenonville, Hôtel Majestic. To dance: Carlton.
CABARETS.–La Gondola, Casanova.
DANCINGS.–Monico, rue Maréchal-Pétain.
Aux Flots Bleus.
TENNIS.–Clubs open to all visitors: Cannes
L.T.C., 17 courts; New Courts L.T.C., 11 courts; Carlton L.T.C.,
8 courts; Métropolie L.T.C., 6 courts; Tennis Carnot, 4 courts.
(NOTE.–The Carlton L.T.C., though
connected with the Hotel, belongs to the Burke family.)
Clubs more or less confined to guests at the
hotels to which they belong: Beau-Site L.T.C., 7 courts; Provence
L.T.C., 6 courts; Californie L.T.C., 6 courts; Gallia L.T.C.,
5 courts.
GOLF.–(1) Cannes Golf Club, at
Mandelieu. 5 miles. Motor-bus from the Hôtel de Ville. A car costs frs.
60-100. November 15th-April 30th. Two courses: 18 holes, 6,083 yards, Bogey 80;
9 holes, 2,600 yards. Flat, alluvial soil, river, good lies. Season, frs. 650;
month, frs. 350; week, frs. 150; day, frs. 30. The issue of tickets for short
periods is usually suspended after January 1st.
(2) The Country Club, Mougins. 4-5
miles beyond Le Cannet (about 500 feet above sea-level). 18 holes, 6,063 yards,
Bogey 69. Open November-April. Associate-members pay frs. 1,000 for the season,
and can invite one guest per day at a green-fee of frs. 100.
POLO.–At Mandelieu. Tram or motor-bus from
the Hôtel de Ville. Usually at 3, and frs. 20 for entrance.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Iles St. Marguérite (see
Chapter III.) and St. Honorat. From the harbor front (Casino end), at 10, 11
and 2. Return for lunch, or about 4. Luncheon on Ste. Marguérite at the Masque
de Fer (22); tell them when you land.
Miramar, in the Esterel: luncheon at the Pomme
de Pin.
AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See under St. Raphaël and Nice.
CASINO.–Admission to the hall for concerts,
etc. (see Chapter VII.): day, frs. 5; season, frs. 150. Including admission to
the Salles de Jeu: week, frs. 50; month, frs. 150; season, frs. 500. Open
December 15th-April 15th. Musical performances every afternoon at 3.30–Vocal
and instrumental concerts, selections from operas in costume, ballets, etc.
Classical concerts on Fridays. Dramatic operatic performances on most evenings
in the theatre, and matinées on Sundays (occasionally on other days).
CASINO D’ETE (provisionally in the Cercle
Nautique on the Croisette). May 1st-October 30th.
THEATRE.–Sporting,
in the rue des Belges. Comedy, revue and varieties. This also has a
gaming-licence, and there are Baccara and Boule Rooms.
Special
Entertainments.
Carnival Processions.
Battles of Flowers.
Venetian Fête, about the end of February.
Concours des Enfants–an exhibition of
competitive games and dancing by children on the Plage du Midi. Charming to
watch.
Motor Show and Trials.
Fancy Dress Balls at the Cercle Nautique.
Yacht Racing.
Flower Show, just before Easter.
Illuminations and fireworks.
International Football Match, at Easter.
Fête Nautique, at Easter.
Horse-Racing, on the flat, over the sticks, and trotting, Two meetings:
(1) last week in January and first fortnight in February; (2) early March. The
principal events are on Sundays.
Provençal
Fête at Le Cannet, first Sunday in April. Country costumes.
Tennis Tournaments.
Mid-December, at the Carlton
L.T.C.
About
the end of December, at the Beau-Site
L.T.C.
Second
week in January, at the New Courts L.T.C.
Third
week in January, at the Gallia L.T.C.
Last
week in January, at the Métropole L.T.C.
Second
week in February, at the Carlton L.T.C.
Third
week in March, at the Cannes L.T.C.
(Championship of the Riviera).
Last week in March, at the Beau-Site L.T.C. (Cannes Championship).
LOCAL ILLUSTRATED WEEKLY.–La Saison de Cannes,
LOCAL ILLUSTRATED WEEKLY.–La Saison de Cannes,
Saturdays, frs. 2.50c
SYNDICAT
D’INITIATIVE.–In the Hôtel de Ville.
BRITISH BANKS.–Barclays, 7 rue Maréchal Foch.
Lloyd’s National
Provincial, 2 Place des Iles.
HOTEL DES POSTES.–Rue Bivouac Napoléon.
COOK’S.–3 rue Maréchal-Foch.
AUTO-CARS AND AUTO MAILS.–Auto-Riviera cars
may be picked up in front of the Casino. Bureau P.L.M., 4 La Croisette.
Brighton Agency, 5 Square Merimée.
ENGLISH CHEMIST.–British Pharmacy, 5 rue
Félix-Faure. Ginner and Co., 40 rue d’Aintibes.
BRITISH VICE CONSUL.–Mr. J. G. Taylor, 7 rue
Maréchal-Foch. 10-12 and 2-4.
CIRCULATING LIBRARY.–The Lounge, rue des
Etats-Unis.
ENGLISH DOCTOR.–Dr. R. Browne Carthew, Hôtel
Wagram.
ENGLISH CHURCHES.–St. Paul’s, Bd. D’Italie.
11. Christ Church, Route de Fréjust. 10.30
MOTOR-CARS (for hire without
chauffeur).–E.R.V.A., 125 rue d’Antibes. Mora, 2 rue Georges-Clemenceau. Garage
Lafayette, 4 Route d’Antibes. (See under Nice.)
TABAC-LUXE.–Rue Bivouac Napoléon. Rue Félix
Faure.
GOLFE JUAN.
10 minutes from Cannes and 40 from Nice by
train. Rain vanishes quickly owing to the porous soil. Milder climate than
Cannes. Naval anchorage.
Several hotels and pensions (30-35).
JUAN-LES-PINS.
15-20 minutes from Cannes and 40-50 from Nice
by train.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels.
Grand, Welcome (50). Graziella, Miramar, Splendid,
Windsor (40). Alexandra, La Plage (35). Reserve (35).
PENSIONS.–Alba, Azurea, Beau – Sejour,
Magali, Mimosas, Montout, La Roseraie (35). Aiguilly, Hermitage, Louise,
Petit Paradis (30). Henri Quatre, Les Palmiers (25).
BATHING.–Casino.
MORNING WALK.–Round the cape.
APERTIF.–Café de Paris, Av.
Amiral-Courbet. At Antibes, Café Glacier.
RESTAURANTS.–La Fregate (Casino) (25).
Jack, opposite the Pinède. Brasserie Chazel, Av. De la Gare. At
Antibes, Français, rue James-Close.
TEA
ROOMS.–Martin, opposite Casino. English Tea Room, Av. De la Gare. On the
cape, Pavillon Eden-Roc.
COCKTAIL.–Frederic’s Bar.
DANCE-DINNERS, CABARET.–Auberge Du
Pin Doré.
GOLF.–At
St. Véran (Cagnes-sur-Mer). See under Nice. Tram, about 20 minutes.
TENNIS.–Juan-les-Pins L.T.C., route des Sables.
4 courts.
CASINO.–Moderate charges for admission. Theatre. Cinema. Gala dinners,
etc. Open in summer.
SHORT
EXCURSIONS.–St. Paul, and Vence, both by train. See under Nice.
AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See under Nice.
Special Entertainments.
Battle
of Flowers in February and about Easter.
Venetian
Fête, Illuminations, etc., about
Easter.
Yacht Racing.
Creditable efforts are being made to enliven
the summer season by similar fêtes (July-September).
SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Station square.
HOTEL DES POSTES.–Av. De l’Esterel.
AUTO-CARS.–Guttin, opposite Casino.
AUTO-MAILS. Brighton Agency, opposite Casino.
CIRCULATING LIBRARY.–The English Library, Av.
Vilmorin.
LUXE-TABAC.–Buonfils, Av. de la Gare.
CAGNES.
About 30 minutes from either Cannes or Nice
by train.
A more bracing climate than Juan-les-Pins.
About 10 hotels (35-20).
Quite a good excursion centre for short
excursions by train, tram and motor-bus.
(NOTE.–The pronunciation of the name of this
place on English lips is apt to lead to confusion with Cannes. Cagnes is
Kan-yer, making the first syllable soft and cutting the second very short.
Cannes is simply Kann, with the nn sound crisply distinct.)
NICE.
25 hours from London. 45 minutes from Monte
Carlo by train or Auto-Mail (frs. 10).
TAXIS.–At the station and in the Place
Masséna. The fares are too low–from fr. 1.50c. (3d. !)–and consequently the
chauffeurs don’t put the flag down. Insist on it before starting. They are
entitled to 25 per cent. more than is shown, and a tip of another 10 per cent.
or so is usual.
THE TRAMWAY CENTRE is the Place Messéna
(except for Cimiez: Rue Hôtel des Postes).
Hotels.
ON THE PROMENADE.
Westminster (100). Mediterranée (90). Polonia
(70). Petrograd (60). Princes (45).
PLACE MASSENA AND JARDIN ALBERT I.
Angleterre (80).
MEUBLES.–Du Cercle, Claridge’s, Volnay.
QUARTIER DU BOULEVARD VICTOR-HUGO.
(Central but fairly quiet.)
O’Connor (90). Scribe (100). Astoria,
Des Palmiers, Splendid (75). Atlantic, Queen’s, Busby, Windsor
(60-65). Ariane, Edward’s Palace, Berlioz, St. George’s, Baie des Anges,
Excelsior, Richmond (45-50). Concordia, Côte d’Azur, Gounod, Lisbonne,
Du Louvre, Trianon, Wyh, Londres, St. Ermin’s, Interlaken (35-40). Français, Des Nations,
Castille (25-30).
MEUBLES
close to the Station.–London, Madrid, St.
Louis, Trocadero, Frank, St. Gothard, Serraire, Normandy, Ostende, Durante,
Lorraine.
QUARTIER BD. DUBOUCHAGE.
(Central but fairly quiet.)
De Nice, De La Paix (70-80). Des Empereurs
(65). Albion, Alexandra, Langham, Luxor,
De Paris, Prince de Galles, Beaulieu, Suede, d’Europe (45-50). Bristol, Central (30-35).
MEUBLES.–Les Camélias
(recommended), Vendôme, Crillon, Rivoli, Mulhouse, De La Poste,
Lepante, Midland, New York, Villa Georges, Raimbaldi, Amirauté, Richelieu,
Sibill’s, Strasbourg.
BOULEVARD DE CIMIEZ.
Winter Palace (100). Hermitage,
Regina (80-85). Alhambra (60).
PENSIONS.–Viennoise,
British (35-40).
WEEKLY PAPER.–The Côte d’Azur. Saturdays. Frs. 4.
WEEKLY PAPER.–The Côte d’Azur. Saturdays. Frs. 4.
BATHING.–Opera Plage, Quai des Etats – Unis
Grande Bleue, beyond the Negresco.
APERITIF.–Savoy Café, next to the
Ruhl. Negresco Plage, opposite the hotel.
RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Negresco.
Ruhl. Réserve, on the point beyond the harbor (especially for luncheon;
fish; car from the Place Masséna (end of the Av. de Verdun). For dinner, Maxim’s,
Le Perroquet, facing the gardens, Place Masséna.
Second Division: For a French style luncheon:
Municipal Casino (35). Français, rue
Gioffredo.
Abassadeurs (Savoy Hotel. Regence Royale (Av. de la Victoire). For
fish specialities (in the open): La
Pergola, Bregaillon Nicois (Bouillabaisse), Faverio (Oysters). Aux
Colonies (18): all at the eastern end of the Promenade. Grills: Queen’s Silver, Av. Victor-Hugo. Caressa, rue Maréchal-Pétain. Tavernes
(Alsation dishes and Strasbourg beer, cold meat–assiette anglaise, frs. 5): Cigognes
d’Alsace, Brasserie Excelsior, Carillon, all in the rue Gioffredo: Teverne Alsacienne, 42 rue Hôtel des Postes: Renaissance, 3 rue
Alsace-Lorraine (genuine Pilsener).
Third
Division: Auguste, 16 rue Emma (16); omelettes. Bœuf à la Mode, 1
rue Paul Déroulède. Chapon Fin, Bd. Rambaldi (recommended): d’Italie,
9 rue Paul Déroulède; Taverne Gothique, rue d’Italie; all (10). For real
Niçois cooking: Bottau, 1 rue Colonna d’Istria in the Old Town.
TEA
ROOMS.–Scotch Tea House, Jardin
Albert Premier. Vogade, under the
arcade on the west side of the Place Masséna (French pastry). Marquise de Sévigné, 16 Av. de Verdun. Irish House, 15 rue de France. Napolitain, 25 Av. de la Victoire
(ices).
DANCE-TEAS.–For the entertainment: Negresco,
Ruhl, Le Perroquet, Hotel Miramar (see above). To dance: Hotel Majestic, Bd. de Cimiez, Casino Municipal (12), Imperator, 39 Promenade des Anglais
(under-ground). Cheaper, Casino de la
Jetée.
COCKTAILS.–Vogade (see under
Tea Rooms). Cintra, almost next door.
DANCE-DINNERS as for Teas, less the last two and plus Maxim’s.
CABARETS.–Maisonette des Comédiens
Russes, rue St. François-de-Paule (dinner, 9 p.m.). Maxim’s. Le Perroquet. Kasbek, 16 rue Dalpozzo. Imperator. Chat Noir (see page 58).
DANCINGS
(numerous).–Aly, La Féria, Jardin de Ma Sœur, and the Brasserie Excelsior (cheaper), are all in the rue St.
Michel (Pl. Masséna).
GOLF.–At Cagnes-sur-Mer, 7 miles. Train 20
minutes. Tram 40 minutes (at the hour), and motor-bus (25 minutes) from the
Place Masséna. Day, frs. 30; month, frs. 250; season, frs. 50. 18 holes. 5,800
yards. Seaside, on the flat.
TENNIS.–Nice L.T.C., Parc Impérial.
Trams 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8. Month, frs. 250 ; season, frs. 500, plus tax (10 per
cent.). 21 courts. Dance-Tea.
CASINO MUNICIPAL.–Place Masséna,
old-fashioned but roomy. Entertainments in the hall every afternoon and
evening. Theatre (frs. 8-12). Cinema. Admission from frs. 2 (day: hall), to
frs. 200 for the season (December-April) including the Salles de Jeux.
CASINO DE LA JETEE.–On the Promenade, is
cheaper.
MUNICIPAL OPERA.–Rue François-de-Paule (frs. 10-40).
THEATRES.–Eldorado, 29 rue
Pastorelli. Variétés, 5 Bd.
Victor-Hugo. Nouveau, 2 rue St.
Michel. All central. Renaissance
(bright shows occasionally), 54 rue de la République. Théatre Guignol, opposite the Gare du Sud.
CINEMA.–Rialto, rue de Rivoli (side of the
Negresco) is clean, comparatively airy, and comfortable.
Special Entertainments.
Carnival
Processions, Illuminations, Battles of Flowers, Fancy-Dress Balls, etc., in the
fortnight preceding Ash Wednesday.
Battles
of Flowers early in Lent and Mid-Lent (Mi-Carême).
Tennis Tournaments, first week in January,
second week in Feb. (Championships), second week in March.
Race Meetings: steeplechasing, on the flat,
and trotting. Spread over January and March.
International Horse Show. April.
Motor Show. January.
Dog Show. March.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Vence, and St. Paul (lunch
at the hotel on the left), both interesting old towns; Grasse; tram. Falicon
(tram to Cimiez terminus and walk, return by the Gorge de St. André and tram).
AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–Among the best are:
Menton by the Grande Corniche and return by the Corniche Inférieure. Gorge de
Loup. Gorges du Cians and De Daluis. Tenda. St. Martin-Vesubie.
NOTE.–There are winter sports (ski-ing, etc.)
at Peira-Cava, which can also be reached by these cars.
SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Avenue de Verdun, rue
Paradis.
HOTEL DES POSTES.–Place Wilson.
BOOKSELLER.–Paraf (“Le Coin de Nice”), at the
corner of the rue Honoré-Sauvan and the rue Maccarani (for English and American
books).
BRITISH BANKS.–Barclay’s, 7 Promenade des
Anglais. Lloyd’s National Provincial, 7 Jardin Albert Premier.
BRITISH CONSUL.–Mr. J. Wiseman Keogh:
Vice-Consul, Mr. C. J. Beale. 95 rue de France. 10-12, and 2.30-4.30 except
Saturdays.
U.S. CONSUL.–52, Bd. Victor-Hugo. 9-12.
COOK’S.–13 Promenade des Anglais.
AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–Auto-Riviera, 12
Av. de Verdun. Brighton, 32 rue Hôtel des Postes. Melchior, Av. Félix-Faure.
ENGLISH CHEMISTS.–Riviera Pharmacy, no. 68,
and Mercier, no. 16, Avenue de la Victoire.
CIRCULATING LABRARIES.–Lounge, 16 rue
Maréchal-Joffre. Universal, 1 rue Croix-de Marbre.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–12 Place
Alziary-de-Malausséna.
AMERICAN CHURCH.–21 Bd. Victor-Hugo.
MOTOR CARS without chauffeur.–Bristol, 17bis,
Av. de la Victoire (in the Passage). Day frs. 250; week frs. 1,200, etc.; and
pay your petrol (insurance is included), E.R.V.A., 71 Bd. Gambetta. S.A.V.A., 2
rue du Congrès. Auber, 29 rue Verdi.
TABAC-LUXE.–No. 11, and no. 28, Av. de la
Victoire.
TURKISH BATH.–21 rue de Buffa.
VILLEFRANCHE.
10 minutes by train and 30 by tram from Nice.
30 min. by train and 1 hour by tram from Monte Carlo. The railway station is
inconveniently situated. Old town most picturesque (and clean). Naval
anchorage.
Hotels and Boarding
Houses.
Welcome
(on the sea-level), Réserve, Regence, St. Donat, Bananiers (30).
Freddy, Ker Maria, Family House (25).
SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Pavillon de l’Octroi
(where you get off the tram).
Naval Battle of Flowers, usually in March.
ST. JEAN-CAP FERRAT.
About 50 minutes by tram from Nice. Station,
Beaulieu.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels.
Parc (under the management of its
English proprietor). Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat (dance-teas).
PENSIONS.–Gypta, La Mascotte, Mon Loisir.
HOTELS AT PONT ST. JEAN.–Mont-Fleuri,
Suisse.
RESTAURANTS.–Namouna (luncheon frs.
50-60 in all; eels). A La Vraie Bouillabaisse (cheaper). At
Pont-St.-Jean: Réserve de St. Jean.
BEAULIEU.
15 minutes by train and 50 by tram from Nice.
30 minutes by train and 40 by tram from Monte Carlo.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels.
Bristol (about 80). Des Anglais, Beaulieu,
Beau-Sejor, Bedford, Bond’s, Empress, Hermitage, Londres, Metropole, Royal,
Victoria (from 40).
PENSIONS.–Hermosa (recommended), Alpes,
Belle-Vue, France, Fresia, Marcellin, De Londres, Printania, Flora, Le Reve,
Primerose, Henri Quatre (from 25).
RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Réserve de Beaulieu. Cheaper: Berlugana,
Kid’s Auguste, Bellevue, Caramello, Réserve Royal, Réserve de St. Jean.
Tennis Tournament in February. The courts
belong to the Hôtel Bristol.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–Ravin de la Murta. 10.45.
EZE.
30 minutes from Nice or Monte Carlo by train.
35 minutes from Nice or Monte Carlo by train. 35 minutes from Monte Carlo and 1
hour from Nice by tram.
Lovely bay, but nowhere to walk without
climbing. The old town, which clings to the summit of a peak about 1,000 feet
high, is most picturesque seen from below or from the Moyenne Corniche.
Hotels.
At the station: Terminus. There are
two small ones at the foot of the old town, and a restaurant (Bellevue).
CAP D’AIL.
20 minutes from Monte Carlo by train or
motor-bus. The station is inconveniently situated.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels.
Eden (luxe). Soleil, Cap-Fleuri, Laurens,
(30-40).
PENSION.–Villa Marie-Louise.
MONTE CARLO,
About 25½ hours from London. See Nice and
Menton. Funicular railway to La Turbie: the station is in the Boulevard
Princesse-Antoinette.
Hotels.
MONTE CARLO PROPER.
(See Chapter II.)
Grand, Victoria, Prince de Galles,
Windsor, Royal, Mirabeau, all quietly situated; Helder, Beau-Rivage
(trams; the latter stands low): (90-100). Balmoral, Gallia, (quietly
situated); Albion, Louvre, Masséna, Regina, Savoy, Monte Carlo Palace
(one of the most comfortable hotels on the Riviera), and Alexandra, all
on the tram-route: (70-80). Des Princes (low); Splendid (high); Terminus
(close to station): (60). Colonies, quiet situation; Pistonatto,
on the sea: (50). Crystal Palace, Sun Palace (trams); Ravel
(quiet situation); Berne, Gourmets, National, all on the
sea-level but behind the railway embankment: (35-40).
MEUBLES.–Des Palmiers, Russie, both
recommended. Byron, stands well. Buckingham, Richmond, Richmond,
Villa Louis.
All the above hotels are within 10 minutes’
walk of the Casino.
IN THE CONDAMINE.
(See Chapter II.)
Facing the harbor: Bristol (100). Renaissance,
Monégasque (55).
Condamine, Etrangers, Beau-Séjour
(60-65). Paix, Atlantic (recommended) (50-55). Angleterre, Central,
Marseille, Milan, Riva, all quietly situated; Négociants, Nice, Siècle,
close to Monaco station (trams); (35-45).
IN BEAUSOLEIL (FRENCH TERRITORY).
Luxe: Riviera
Palace, high up, magnificient view, terrace. In the Bd. de Midi: Suisse,
Olympia (50); Cosmopolitain (40); Diana (Meublé).
BATHING.–At Larvotto. Car from the Place du Casino.
BATHING.–At Larvotto. Car from the Place du Casino.
MORNING WALKS.–The Rock. The Jardin Suspendu.
APERITIF.–Café de Paris. Royalty, Park
Palace. Restaurant St. James (see below).
RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Ciro’s,
Ambassadeurs, both in the Galerie Charles III. Riviera Palace (car
from the Square).
Second Division: Café de Paris (35-40;
à la carte, First Division prices). Boulengrins, Monte Carlo
Palace (25-25). Quinto’s, Av. St. Michel (keep right). Brasserie
Royale, Bd. Princesse-Antoinette. Pam’s, Av. de la Costa (35). St.
James, Quai de la Plaisance (anguilles Laurette and Bouchées de Valaille). Ré,
by the Alexandra (oysters).
Third Division: Le Napolitain, Bd.
Princess-Antoinette. In the Avenue de la Costa: Bœuf à la Mode (15) and Charlot’s
(10). In Beausoleil: Petit Riviera, Bd. de la République, Amphition,
Bd. de Midi, (12). For an English-style luncheon: English Tea Lounge, 37
Bd. des Moulins (15); Bass and Guiness.
In the Condamine the hotels in the Avenue de
la Gare (see above) cater for outsiders, also the Romain; (10-12).
On the
Rock: Culoz by the Cathedral.
TEA ROOMS.–English Tea Lounge (see above). Scotch Tea House, a few doors further on; scones. Pasquier, Av. St. Michel (French pastry, meringues, marron glacés and jellied fruits), also in the Hermitage building. Cecil’s, Grand Hotel building. Scapini, 21 Bd. des Moulins (nougat); concert.
TEA ROOMS.–English Tea Lounge (see above). Scotch Tea House, a few doors further on; scones. Pasquier, Av. St. Michel (French pastry, meringues, marron glacés and jellied fruits), also in the Hermitage building. Cecil’s, Grand Hotel building. Scapini, 21 Bd. des Moulins (nougat); concert.
DANCE TEAS AND DINNERS.–For the exhibitions: Café
de Paris, Ambassadeurs. To dance: Grand, Riviera Palace.
COCKTAILS.–Royalty, Pam’s.
CABARETS.–Carlton, Av. des Fleurs. Maxim’s,
rue de la République, Beausoleil.
DANCINGS.–Knickerbocker, under Ciro’s.
Black Cat, up the steps by the Société Général. Maurice’s Bar, Bd.
Princesse Antoinette.
TENNIS.–La Festa Club. 3 courts at La
Festa and 6 on the Condamine. Half-day, frs. 10; day, frs. 20; week, frs. 100;
month, frs. 250; season, frs. 600. Secretary, W. G. Henley. The Country
Club, St. Romain, to be open next season, is to have 20 courts (see below).
GOLF.–At Mont Agel. (See Chapter II.)
Auto-car from the Place du Casino at 9 and 9.30 (frs. 8); or by the funicular
to La Turbie (9.15, 10.10, 11.45), car meets trains. 18 holes. 4,903 yards.
Day, frs. 40; month, frs. 400; season, frs. 750 (may be reduced). Restaurant.
THE COUNTRY CLUB, to be opened December,
1927, is the last word in luxury. Beside the 20 tennis courts, there are 2 for
squash, covered and open swimming baths (with running water, that in the former
warmed in winter). First-class restaurant. Dancing. Apply to Mr. Henley at La
Festa.
CASINO.–Admission to the Atrium and Reading
Room free (a ticket is nominally necessary). Admission to the Salles de Jeu:
day, frs. 10; months, frs. 100; season, frs. 250. Cercle Privé: day, frs. 40;
month, frs. 200; season, frs. 500. (The “Salles de Jeu” above are the outer
gaming rooms, vulgarly called the Kitchen; the “Cercle Privé” means the inner
rooms).
SPORTING CLUB.–Usually frs. 100 extra to a
“Cercle Privé” ticket.
There is also a Casino in Beausoleil. Rates
low.
CASINO THEATRE.–Mid-November to end January:
Comedy (occasionally English plays), Light Opera, Ballet, special new films
(20-40). End January to early April: Grand Opera (40). December and April:
Serge Diaghileff’s Russian Ballet (20-40). November to April: Wednesdays, 3
p.m.: Classical Concerts (10). Occasional special concerts.
BEAUX ARTS.–The large hall is a cinema, very
lofty, clean and comfortable (5-10). In the small hall, Chamber Music on
Mondays and Fridays, 3 p.m., free to holders of “Cercle-Privé” tickets.
Tuesdays and Saturdays, 3 p.m., Instrumental and Vocal Concerts (10).
BEAUSOLEIL CASINO.–Light opera, comedy revue,
varieties.
Special
Entertainments.
November 11th: Illuminations.
January: Motor Car Meet (“Rally”) and Hill
Climbing Competition.
March: Battle of Flowers. Dog Show. Motor
Show and Hill Climbing Competition.
January-February: Pigeon Shooting (if it is
an entertainment). Entrance from the Terrace (10).
National Fête (Monégasque), January
16th-17th. (See Chapter VIII.)
Tennis Tournaments.
Third week in December.
Early January (Club Championships).
February (Butler Trophy and Beaumont Cup).
Second week in April.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–La Turbie, by the mule-path from the end of the rue Bel Respiro. Eze, by the Moyenne Corniche, return by Eze-sur-Mer and tram or auto-mail. Roquebrune by the Bd. de la République (Beausoleil) and Varavilla (keep left); return by Cap Martin and tram, or auto-mail from behind the Riva Bella. Vistaero, by the funicular to La Turbie and walk; return by Cap Martin and as above.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–La Turbie, by the mule-path from the end of the rue Bel Respiro. Eze, by the Moyenne Corniche, return by Eze-sur-Mer and tram or auto-mail. Roquebrune by the Bd. de la République (Beausoleil) and Varavilla (keep left); return by Cap Martin and tram, or auto-mail from behind the Riva Bella. Vistaero, by the funicular to La Turbie and walk; return by Cap Martin and as above.
AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See under Nice and
Menton.
WEEKLY PAPER.–Menton and Monte Carlo News.
Saturdays; frs. 3.
BUREAU DE RENSEIGNEMENTS.–Gardens (opposite
Commissariat de Police).
BRITISH BANKS.–Barclay’s, facing the top of
the Gardens (and the Casino). Lloyd’s National Provincial, 11 Bd. des Moulins.
BUREAU DE POSTE.–Opposite the Sporting Club.
Complaints have been made in the press as to the incivility and disobligingness
of the officials. There is a Post Office in the Atrium of the Casino.
NOTE.–French stamps are not valid on
letters posted in the principality (nor Monégasque stamps in French territory).
Anywhere up the hill-side it is wise to scrutinize the letter-box; if it has
“R.F.” on it, French stamps are necessary. The only exception is as to the
letter-boxes at the stations (Monte Carlo and Monaco), in which letters bearing
either French or Monégasque stamps may be posted.
BRITISH VICE-CONSUL.–Mr. G. W. Hogg, 24 Av.
de la Costa (“Pam’s” building). 10-12, and 2-3 except Saturdays.
CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.–British Library, 30
Bd. des Moulins. Month, frs. 20; two months, frs. 25, etc. English Library, Bd.
Princesse Antoinette. Anglo-American Library, in the Grand Hotel building.
COOK’s.–Crédit Lyonnais, Av. des Beaux Arts.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–Av. des Fleurs. 10.
AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–At the Auto-Riviera
Kiosque at the bottom of the upper Gardens (Place du Casino). Brighton Agency,
and Melchior, under the Galerie Charles III.
ENGLISH CHEMIST.–H. L. Hastings, 27 Bd. des
Moulins. Faraut, Bd. Princesse Antoinette.
ENGLISH DOCTOR.–Dr. Gibson, Winter Palace.
DANCING LESSONS.–Ludo Mass, Park Palace.
HAIRDRESSERS.–Edouard, on the harbor-front (Hôtel
Bristol building). Joseph, Park Palace.
SPECIAL sHOPS.–Lucien Lelong, alongside Savoy
Hotel (west side of the Gardens). Premet, and Jean Patou, in the Galerie
Charles III. Maison Lewis, in the Café de Paris building. Fanchette, 50 Bd. des
Moulins (underclothing).
LUXE-TABAC.–Café de Paris building. In the
Bd. Princesse Antoinette, opposite the Rocher de Cancale. In the Condamine,
near the top of the Rue Grimaldi.
TURKISH BATH.–On the Terrace. One of the
finest in Europe.
ROQUEBRUNE-CAP MARTIN.
20-25 minutes from Monte-Carlo or Menton by
tram. From the station (inconveniently situated) 7 minutes to either.
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels and Boarding
Houses.
By the tram route: Riva Bella (large).
Ideal-Séjour (40-50).
On the hillside: Mirasole, Plaza, Roche
Fleurie (40-50).
On the point of the Cape: Grand Hôtel du
Cap Martin (large).
Restaurant in the Old Town: Hostellerie,
on the left just after passing through the Place de l’Ecole.
TEA ROOMS.–Four and Twenty Blackbirds,
on the tram route.
MENTON.
26 hours from London. 20 minutes from Monte
Carlo by train or Auto-Mail (francs 7). 45 minutes by tram.
Hotels.
WEST BAY.
On the front: Regina (70). Bristol
(55). Carlton, Flora (50). Stella Bella, Prince de Galles
(45). Rive d’ Azur (40).
On the main road: Imperial, which
stands back, absolutely first-class in all respects (90). Astoria (50). Excelsior
(45). Gay, De France (35).
Elsewhere in the town: Orient (90). Venise
(85). Mediterranée, Louvre (70). Majestic (60). Parc (55).
Europe, Ambassadeurs (45). Turin (40).
Outskirts: Mont Fleuri (80). Winter
Palace, superbly situated (70). Iles Britanniques (60). National
(50). Edward’s (35). Albion (30).
The Hotel-Pension
de l’Annonciate (60) has a hill-top to itself–a georgeous situation–with a
funicular.
EAST BAY (GARAVAN).
On the front: Anglais, Britannia (60).
Grand (50). Splendid (40).
On the hillside: Particularly to be
recommended are the Belle Vue, Italie and Grande Bretagne, all
under the personal management of the proprietor, Mr. Churchman. New York
(30).
In different parts of the town and outskirts
there are about 30 Pensions, the rates varying from 25 to 40 francs.
BATHING.–At La Pergola, East Bay (opposite the Hôtel des Anglais). Ideal’s Bains, at the Cap Martin end of the front.
BATHING.–At La Pergola, East Bay (opposite the Hôtel des Anglais). Ideal’s Bains, at the Cap Martin end of the front.
APERTIF.–On the front: Rumpelmayer’s, at
the corner of the gardens: King’s Bar, a little nearer the harbour.
RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Amirauté,
East Bay.
Second Division: La Pergola, East Bay.
Rochers Rouges, a few minutes’ walk from the tram terminus at Garavan
(actually in Italy; passport necessary).
Third Division: Hôtel de France (frs.
15); Gay (frs. 16); both in the Av. Félix Faure.
TEA ROOMS.–Victoria (behind the Hôtel
Majestic). Ronzi, west side of the Public Gardens. Engadine
(“Confiserie Anglaise”), 3 Av. Félix Faure (very good tea and meringues). There
are concerts at Rumpelmayer’s, and Clarence (Public Gardens, next
to Barclay’s Bank).
DANCE-TEAS.–Casino, Amirauté, La Pergola,
Imperial.
COCKTAILS.–William’s, at the corner of
the Public Gardens. King’s Bar.
DANCE-DINNERS.–The Imperial.
CABARET.–Colin Maillard.
DANCINGS.–Clarence, Café Glacier
(Public Gardens).
TENNIS.–Menton L.T.C., Avenue Carnot.
Open to all visitors. 10 courts. 3 croquet.
GOLF.–At Sospel (see Chapter II.), in
connection with the Golf Hotel. 18 holes. 5,727 yards. Bogey 78. Day,
frs. 20; week, frs. 100; month, frs. 300; season, frs. 400.
CASINO.–Public Gardens. Mid-December-April,
and Jully-September. Rates low. Theatrical performances three or four evenings
a week and occasional matinées.
Special
Entertainments.
Tennis Tournaments. First weeks in January
and March.
Carnival Processions.
Battles of Flowers.
Yacht Racing. Second week in March.
Fête de Nuit in the East Bay, about the same
time. Illuminations and Fireworks.
Motor Show in March.
Fête de St.
Agnès. February.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–A few of the best, either by carriage or afoot, are–By carriage or mule-path: Gorbio, Castellar. Mule-path: St. Agnes (lunch at the Righi). The ridge of the Annonciate (picnic). Afternoon: to the Tea Pavilion on the point of Cap Martin for the sunset (along the front, or by tram to La Plage). By carriage (frs. 40-50) or motor-bus from the Place Georges-Clémenceau at 1.30) to the Hanbury Gardens at La Mortola (garden-lovers) should not miss this); Mondays and Fridays; passport necessary.
SHORT EXCURSIONS.–A few of the best, either by carriage or afoot, are–By carriage or mule-path: Gorbio, Castellar. Mule-path: St. Agnes (lunch at the Righi). The ridge of the Annonciate (picnic). Afternoon: to the Tea Pavilion on the point of Cap Martin for the sunset (along the front, or by tram to La Plage). By carriage (frs. 40-50) or motor-bus from the Place Georges-Clémenceau at 1.30) to the Hanbury Gardens at La Mortola (garden-lovers) should not miss this); Mondays and Fridays; passport necessary.
Walkers should get the pamphlet
“Guide-Touristique Annexe” from the Syndicat d’Initiative, which
contains full particulars and an admirable map of the numerous walks. It is
best to keep clear of the frontier on the mountains eastward, as mistakes have
been made.
AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–Along the Italian coast
to Bordighera, St. Remo, Alassio. Also as under Nice.
WEEKLY PAPER.–See under Monte Carlo.
SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Kiosque at the corner
of the gardens on the front.
BRITISH BANKS.–Barclay’s, corner of the
gardens and the Av. Félix Faure. Lloyd’s National Provincial, 4, rue de la
République.
HOTEL DES POSTES.–Rue Partouneaux.
COOK’S.–Place St. Roch.
AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–Auto-Riviera, Av.
de Verdun (west side of the Public Gardens).
ENGLISH CHEMIST.–British Pharmacy, 29 Av.
Félix Faure.
BRITISH VICE-CONSUL.–Mr. Churchman, Villa Les
Grottes.
CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.–Lounge Library, No. 9,
and English Library, No. 5, rue Henry-Bennett. British Library, 6 rue Prato.
ENGLISH DOCTORS.–W. Campbell, Casa Rossa,
Garavan. D. W. Samways, Villa Flavie, Av. Boyer.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–St. John’s, corner of the
Public Gardens; 10.30.
SCOTCH CHURCH.–Rue de la République; 10.30.
TABACS DE LUXE.–34 Av. Félix Faure, and the Regence
Bar, at the end of the rue Partouneaux near the Place St. Roch.
INLAND.
GRASSE.
1 hour from Cannes on a branch line (P.L.M.).
(See Chapter II.)
Hotels and Boarding
Houses.
Route de Magagnosc: Riva
Bella, Les Chauves (45). Maraquita, Les Moulins, Les Roches Grises
(30). Elise (25).
Bd. Croët
(near Station): Beausoleil (35). St. Anne (30).
Quartier de la Courade: Val d’ Azur
(30). Beaulieu, Gilette (25).
Route de
St. Vallier: Marie Louise, Les Palmiers (30).
RESTAURANT.–Rotisserie de la Reine Pédauque.
RESTAURANT.–Rotisserie de la Reine Pédauque.
WALKS.–Château d’Eau. Canal de Foulon. La Marbrière. Notre
Dame de Valcluse.
ENGLISH CHURCH.–Avenue Victoria.
AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See Cannes and Nice.
CASINO.–December-April. Rates low. Theatrical
entertainments, etc.
MUNICIPAL
THEATRE.–Chiefly comedy.
Special
Entertainments.
Carnival Procession.
Two Battles of Flowers.
Local Fête.
SOSPEL.
1½ hours from Menton by tram.
(See Chapter II.)
For golfers (nothing else to do but walk);
see under Menton.
Hotels.
Golf (recommended), De France,
Carenco.
The paranoia and francophobia … mind-blowing!