How to be Happy on the Riviera 4

The concluding part of a posting of a complete book How to be Happy on the Riviera by Robert Elson W. (Arrowsmith Ltd., 11 Quay Street, Bristol, 1927).The appendix has a wealth of information, much of it aimed at the long stay vacationer and the expat or 'remittance man' (similar to the trustafrian of our time). The address and name of the British Consul in Monte Carlo (G W Hogg) the address of the British Library and the Anglo-American Library (in the Grand Hotel building.) There was even a weekly paper for the British abroad,The Cote D'Azur,that came out on a Friday. There is good advice for those who 'winter abroad' -- Hyeres is suggested for those who like it quiet, Monte Carlo for those who want it lively (but the bathing is poor). Also invaluable advice for the journey there, that might still hold true:-
"Don’t trust the time-tables as to there being a restaurant-car on any train southward from Paris (except the Calais–Méditerranée); bring a tea-basket with you and be prepared to grab things from the buffets at the Gare de Lyon and at Marseilles, or you may go foodless."

Practical Hints

  As to the probable cost of a visit to the Riviera, I have compiled two estimates, based partly on my own experiences and partly on information gathered from friends who have come out. The first is compiled with an eye to economy, but provides for a modest share in the less expensive amusements; I have put the cost of pension at frs. 35 per day, not because it is impossible to find it at a lower figure, but because that should be obtainable anywhere without difficulty. 

In the second I have taken a more liberal view; although one cannot live at the best hotels for £1 a day (including extras), at that price good accommodation and excellent food could be obtained even last season.


Second Class Return .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..  
Expense on the journeys .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..  
14 days Pension at frs. 35, plus 50 percent cent. for extras, taxes and tips .. .. .
Sundry Expenditure at frs. 25 per day .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..  
Gaieties, Excursions, etc., frs. 600 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

For 28 days, double the last three times



First Class Return .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
Expense on the journeys .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..  
14 days Pension at frs. 80, plus 50 percent cent. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
Sundry Expenditure at frs. 50 per day .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..  
Gaieties, Excursions, etc., .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..


  Hotels on the Riviera have tended more and more to the residential type, and most of them decline between Christmas and the end of February to make terms for room and breakfast only. The rule is full pension–breakfast, luncheon and dinner. (Afternoon tea is always an extra, except at pensions run by English people.) If you want to go about and see what there is to be seen, this rather cramps your style unless a little extra expenditure is a matter of no importance. The hotel wil provide you with a parcel-luncheon whenever you wish, of course; but restaurant-meals mean paying twice over.
  There is a class of hotel which gives room and breakfast only, called meublés, and some of them are clean and respectable. In a mueblé you are free to do as you like; there is nothing to prevent you from picnicking in your room if the fancy takes you. Indeed, that may be the only alternative to going out or fasting; but in many instances there is a restaurant in the building. The disadvantage of being in a mueblé is that it makes you something of an Ishmaelite; there is seldom any lounge accommodation to speak of, and few of the guests use what there is. Nor are all the female guests of the sort your wife would care to make friends with–though, for that matter, wherever you stay on the Riviera your neighbour in the next room may be one of those boofer ladies.
  The problem has quite a different aspect before Christmas and after the beginning of March, when it is not difficult to arrange for a room and breakfast, or mi-pension, in a residential hotel, with a comfortable lounge, etc. (Mi-pension means without the luncheon.)
  The distinction between hotels and boarding-houses is slender; most of the so-called Pensions hold licenses, and are virtually hotels.
  A list of hotels in any particular place may be obtained by writing to the local Syndicat d'Initiative and enclosing an international postal coupon (which may be obtained from any post office) for 3d., or 6d. if you ask for a town-plan as well.* A list of hotels in all the places, large and small, can be obtained from the Fédération des Syndicats d'Initiative de la Côte d'Azur, 2 rue Deloye, Nice; the coupon should be for 1s., and for that, if you ask them, you will get a copy of the  "Carte Panoramique," a sort of bird's-eye view of the entire coast with exaggerated snow-mountains in the background–most picturesque.

* For Monte Carlo, write to the Bureau des Renseignements. There is no Syndicat d'Initiative.

  Minimum prices en pension are given in the list of hotels, also complicated decimals about taxes. The short cut to the probable actual cost is the same as in regard to restaurant meals–add 50 per cent. This will cover a slightly higher charge than the lowest rate, bath (if an extra), taxes, tips, and meals. Ch. c. in these lists means central heating; eau cour., or ch. et f., that there are fitted wash-basins in the bedrooms.
  Even if you have an hotel well recommended from recent personal experience–the only sort of recommendation that is worth anything–I advise against booking rooms in advance. If you do so, the hotel-keeper will almost certainly take advantage of the fact by giving you the poorest accommodation vacant at the money, and it is always on the cards that there may be none vacant. This might be a blessing in disguise, because you stand a far better chance of getting good quarters if you go round on arrival and bargain. That is what I advise you to do. There is a risk between the 15th of January and the end of February; the place may be quite full, and it is just possible that you might have to go on to some small place near by, where rooms could be booked by telephone: but this seldom happens; there is a great deal more cry than wool about visitors sleeping in bathrooms. You run the risk for what it is, anyway; the hotel-keeper won't keep rooms for you when that state of affairs exists.
  This advice represents the view of several people connected with the Syndicats d'Initiative whom I have consulted. They say they get so many complaints from visitors who have booked in advance, and not got what they had a right to expect, that it would be better for both sides if the practice were discontinued.
  An irritating trick of some of the hotel-keeping fraternity is to make a price and then raise it as soon as you are comfortably settled in. There is normally an advance in January on December rates, and this you could ascertain beforehand; but I have often heard of prices being raised arbitrarily because an hotel was full and there were applications for rooms which could not be met. By the way, you need never have any scruple about changing your quarters if the fancy takes you; it is so commonly done on the Riviera that the hotel-keepers have an arrangement about it.
  As I have said some unkind things about the majority of the Riviera hotel-keepers, it is only fair to add that in spite of their shortcomings they almost always do a very good best to make their guests comfortable, that they are generally quite obliging in the way of meeting small personal predilections, and that there is a considerable minority who are not only perfectly honourable but go out of their way to ensure that there shall be no just cause for complaint.
  The least uncomfortable mode of travelling is by Dover-Calais and one of the through expresses ("Calais-Méditerranée"); it is popularly supposed that the luxe trains, composed of sleeping-cars–the lower beds being seats by day–and a dining-car, offer the best accommodation. Personally I don't think so; if you can afford a salon lit, which is a sort of small room with armchairs and beds for two, three or four, you get far more air. An intermediate form of accommodation is a couchette, one of four berths in a first-class compartment, the two lower ones being the seats. The second-class compartments hold eight, and are apt to get very stuffy during the night if any of the passengers are French, because the French have a horror of open windows–or even an open door, on account of the draught from the corridor.
  Between the 1st of December and the 15th of March it is wise to reserve the necessary seats as long beforehand as possible. The railway companies will not book them until a fortnight before the date, but the agencies have an arrangement by which they can do so earlier.
  A point you need to be particular about examined. If depends upon your destination. As a rule, luggage registered through to any of the larger places is examined at the destination, but the regulations change so much that one never knows. Luggage registered through to Monte Carlo is examined at Monaco, the next station. Hand luggage is always examined at the port of debarkation–Calais or Boulogne, etc.
  It is as well to make sure of your meals en route. Places can be reserved in restaurant cars, with the advantage that you can choose your hour; if you leave the question until you get on the train, you may find that all the seats for the earlier services are taken up, and it is not pleasant to have to wait until nine or half-past for dinner when travelling, especially if you are a bad sailor and have missed luncheon. Reserving also prevents you from falling into one of the little traps which await the unwary. There are not restaurant cars on all the trains southward from Paris; the clerk at the agency may glibly assure you that there is one on the train you are going to travel by, and when he tries to book you a seat find that there isn't. In that case the best thing you can do is to dine at the Gare de Lyon; the restaurant is on the first floor, facing the end of the departure platform.
  Ladies alone, and unaccustomed to foreign travel, will find it a convenience to book through a tourist agency for a date on which one of its men is going to Marseilles. This is especially useful in connection with passing the Customs. I have heard Lunn's men well spoken of.
  It is advisable to insure your luggage. For the last year or so there have not been as many robberies as formerly, the principal gang operating having been rounded up; but it is better to be on the safe side. Policies are obtainable from all tourist agencies or at the departure station.
  If you are going to stay in one place all the tie, the best arrangement about money is to tell your bankers to instruct a local bank to cash your cheques; if you intend to move about, take travellers' cheques–for rather more than you think you will require, if you are as others. You will save a good deal of time if you stipulate that the paying bank must be British; the system in the French banks necessitates almost endless waiting.
  As to your packing, take such things as you would wear at home in spring or autumn: light summer clothing is a death-trap on the Riviera. In addition, you need a heavy coat.
  Clothes and personal effects of that kind are not liable to duty. In theory, most of the other things which people take with them are – cameras and field-glasses, for instance; but as a rule the customs officers pass all such things, and are only keen about cigars, cigarettes, and tobacco. Put whatever you have in that way in your hand baggage, and when you open the bag in the custom-house, place it on top. The nominal allowance free of duty is twenty-five cigarettes or about the same weight of tobacco in another form; if you have more, you will be liable to pay at a rate which works out roughly at twice the value in England. There is no reason for bringing more than you require for the journey; the Riviera is not exactly a desert island, and even if you cannot get your favourite brand of smoke, you can get something near. But you can’t get decent matches.
  When you get out of the train on arrival, don’t forget to put on your coat. If you go to look at rooms before settling in, take a warm scarf as well.
  Should the meublé idea appeal to you, look round in the vicinity of that station. French commercial hotels generally leave something to be desired in the way cleanliness and brightness, but it is possible that you may find an exception, and in this class of hotel there is usually a restaurant with moderate prices.
  In this connection, be careful about taking rooms in a meublé which is not listed by the Syndicat d’Initiative, because some of these places really cater for a special class of trade–very temporary guests! The cabman is the lad to put you wise.
  How far you can bargain depends on whether it is early or late in the season, and whether the season is a good or bad one. There are minor things you can always bargain about, such as porridge and bacon-and-eggs for breakfast, and the charge for baths. I object to paying for my cold tub every morning, and rarely fail to get my way. Up to Christmas, and after the beginning of March, the hotel-keepers are generally inclined to be amenable, even in the best hotels.
  Late in the afternoon it is not always easy to be sure as to the aspect of a room. Remember that locally “plein midi” means facing the sea, not “full south.”
  If you get stuck, tell the cocher to go to the Syndicat d’Initiative. He probably won’t know where it is, so have the address handy. The personnel of the Syndicat offices are most obliging; they will telephone all round the town, and if necessary to near-by places, to find possible quarters for you.
  Don’t try to do too much at first. The electricity in the air tempts to over-exertion, which may result in sleeplessness. Let the climate do its work; when your body is attuned to it, you can do anything.
  Banking hours are 9–12 and 2–4, except on Saturdays (9–12). The banks are shut on Sundays, public holidays (much the same as in England), and religious holidays, about which you need to be wary.
  Post Office hours are from 8 to 7 on ordinary days, 8–10 on Sundays and holidays. Stamps for letters can also be obtained from all tobacconists (“Tabac”). Letters to Great Britain (and most other countries) require fr. 1.50 up to 20 grammes (about ¾
oz.); post cards 90c.; telegrams fr. 1.25 per word, with a minimum of frs. 7.50c
  The most useful paper on the coast is the Eclaireur de Nice, which publishes scraps of general news in English, but is chiefly valuable for its chronicle of coming local events. The Paris Continental Daily Mail of the previous day is on sale everywhere first thing in the morning; the London papers of the same date reach Hyères about noon, and later as you go eastward–about half-past three at Menton. Most of the casinos put up Havas telegrams every evening, especially those relating to the money and stock markets.
  The best local guides are the Diamant series, obtainable English or French at frs. 6. If the Diamant is out of print, the next best are the Guides Pol (frs. 4).
  According to the law, café-keepers are obliged to post up a price list; it is generally a conspicuous object, and it will pay you to consult it, and check the waiter’s arithmetic. It is not fair to assume when he makes a mistake in his own favour that he is trying to cheat; the poor man may be a native of the country, and no native can reckon. Their mistakes are just as often against themselves as the other way about.
  Don’t be afraid of airing your French, even if it is insular. East of Cannes many of the inhabitants know very little, and speak badly (they talk a dialect-Italian among themselves). So you need not be shy of making mistakes, or surprised if you are not at once understood.
  The auto-mails, which run all along the coast from Cannes eastwards, are a great convenience; they are saloon-cars, holding between twelve and twenty, and as a rule quite comfortable to ride in. The trams dodder, and jolt so badly as to give one a headache; the trains also dodder, are often very unpunctual when they come from the direction of Marseilles (from east to west) it is necessary to notice the headings of the columns in which the times of possible trains are found. If a train is marked “Omnibus” you are all right; but if it has a letter (A,B,C, etc.),  then probably you will not be able to go by it, because it is reserved for long-distance travellers. There are no taxis, in the ordinary sense of the term, except at Nice (see Appendix). Elsewhere the motor-cars which display a card bearing the word are simply to be hired according to a local scale, the charges depending on distance. It is well to make sure about the price beforehand, and how long you are entitled to stay in the place to which you are going. A ten per cent. tip up to frs. 20 is usual. Otherwise, the Riviera clings to its victorias (voitures). There are all sorts of complicated regulations about zones and distances, which vary in the different places; life not being long enough to study that sort of thing I have made my own rule, which works quite well, and is based on essential justice. For ten minutes’ drive in a one-horse cab I pay frs. 5; in a two-horse cab, frs. 7-8; and more in a rough proportion for longer distances: when I want a cab by the hour, at the rate of frs. 20 per hour, so informing the cocher beforehand; but I usually give him frs. 5 extra, whereupon he grins and thanks me. Station cabmen generally expect more, and one often has to give it, especially in the height of the season–frs. 10-15 even for a short journey, and more if there is much luggage. It should be remembered that for two-thirds of the year they earn very little.
  The hotel servants are sometimes so over-worked that they can only just manage to get through what they have to do by scamping it, but when this is not the case they are usually civil and very obliging. The best way to get on good terms with them is to adopt the democratic French fashion of recognizing that they are human beings. A “bon jour” in the morning, and “bon soir” in the evening count for a good deal, and in return they will willingly do various little things in the way of lady’s-maiding or valeting which are not really part of their work. When they belong to the country, as many of them do, they are generally always disposed to like the English, and are almost childlike in the frankness with which, given the least encouragement, they show it. But you need not be alarmed, madam, if the chambermaid remarks that she loves your husband very much; it will only mean that she thinks him a good fellow. When you have to find fault with her do it quickly and then let it be over; they weep copiously after being scolded, and the next time they appear, eye you doubtfully, like dogs.
  As to shopping. You, sir, cannot buy anything fit to be seen in, except possibly a hat; for underneath, braces and cotton underclothing, which are French specialities. So we put you in the discard. You, madam, may with advantage replenish your wardrobe in Nice, except in stockings (contrary to a common belief, French stockings are dear and rubbishy). If you read what follows carefully, and persevere in well shopping, you may return home several months ahead of the fashions, and even–this between ourselves–make a trifle to set off against your expenses by selling at a profit the things you didn’t really need but couldn’t refrain from buying because they were so just it.
  In the shops which cater specially for the visitors, and small shops in side-streets, it is seldom necessary to pay the price asked. These shopkeepers are absolutely untrustworthy. If they show you something which is nearly, but not quite, what you want, with fluent assurances that the exact thing will be forthcoming in a day or two, don’t believe them. Don’t trust them in any way. If you cannot take your purchases with you, name an hour when you will be in, and say you will pay on delivery; and before you do pay make sure that you have got what you bought. Otherwise you may be landed with two odd shoes, or something of that kind. (I know of a case in which that happened, and it was impossible to get any satisfaction.) In the departmental stores, and the larger shops in main streets which cater for the inhabitants, you need have no fear of such tricks, and as a rule the articles are price-ticketed. But it is never wise to put any reliance on assurances as to the kind or quality of materials, size or fit, or the possibility of supplying what you want subsequently.
  Insist on having a bill for anything you buy which is wholly or partly made of silk, or anything which looks like silk; and if it is said not to be, have the material stated. This applies even to articles with silk linings, such as bags (a Riviera specialty). Keep the bills, and when you return to England have them ready, so that you can produce them to the customs officer if necessary. The duty is thirty-three per cent. ad valorem–in plain English, a third of the value–and the bills have a soothing effect. So, of course, has a pleasant smile. If you attempt to smuggle your purchases in, or don’t tell the truth in reply to questions, and are found out, burst into tears and blame your husband.
  (The other things which the British Customs are keen about are :–

            Tobacco, cigars and cigarettes.
            Spirits, liqeurs and wine.
            Scent and toilet waters.
            Lace and embroidery.
            Clocks and watches.
            Field and opera glasses.)

  While I am engaged with you, madam, let me warn you that the hairdressers are a thieving lot, and that you need not pay more than frs. 10 for cutting, shampooing, waving or manicure (each, ofcourse). This is the tariff at the best establishment in Monte Carlo. Monsieur should not pay more than frs. 5 for having his hair cut and frs. 3 for being shaved, these being the prices fixed by the Hairdressers’ Union.
  It is not worth while to buy anything to send home, tempting as are the little baskets of mandarin oranges with bits of leaf and blossom, to say nothing of the marrons glacés, nougat, friandises, and jellied fruits–all delicious when fresh. Volubly as the shopkeeper may assure you that they will arrive in a few days and in perfect condition, they almost certainly won’t.
  Every shop or bar with the sign “Tabac” does not stock imported brands of tobacco and cigarettes, or only a few of them; those which stock a fair assortment put up “Tabac de Luxe,” do “Luxe-Tabac.” In pipe-tobacco the list includes Dunhill’s Virginia and Standard Mixture, Wills’ Three Castles, Capstan, Player’s Navy Cut, and Craven Mixture. In cigarettes, Abdulla, State Express, Craven “A” and Black Cat, Grey’s, Army Club, Osborne (the Royal size at frs. 10 for twenty are excellent value), Teofani, and various brands of Muratti’s and Wills’. As to prices, they are fixed half-yearly according to the exchange, on a basis which brings them out about 20-25 per cent. more than in England. In high-class cigars the best value to my mind is the Half-a-Corona at frs. 6.50c., and of the cheaper varieties, Campeone, a very mild Italian cigar at frs. 2. The mildest of the French pipe-tobaccos is Caporal doux (paquet vert) at frs. 3.75c. for 40 grammes (1½ oz.); and of the cigarettes Gitanes papier maïs, at frs. 4 (twenty). Other popular brands with English people of an economical disposition are Sultan (Turkish) at frs. 5, Zerga (Algerian) at frs. 4.20c., Fashion, (Virginian) at frs. 2 (ten), and Macedoine, an Italian brand, at frs. 5.40.
  Don’t bother about permis de séjour, as to which a ridiculous amount of fuss has been made in the Press. When you settle into your hotel, a form will be given you to fill up. Nothing else is necessary for two months, and then if you take my advice you will refer the matter to the hotel manager. The only exception is at Monte Carlo; if your hotel is in the principality–a few of the hotels are over the border, in France–the head porter will ask for your passport when you arrive, and if you stay longer than a fortnight you are supposed to go in person to the Commissariat de Police and ask for a permis de séjour, which will cost you 50c. I have never been able to find out what happens to persons who neglect this: it may be nothing.
  Motorists who bring their own cars appear to be so well catered for by the R.A.C. and A.A. that I can tell them nothing, except that if they get ditched and there are any soldiers about, they need not look further for help; and that if they take their cars to Nice for the Fête de St. Christophe, they can have them blessed free of charge in the Place St. Hèléne, along with hundreds of others. If you don’t bring your own car to France you can hire one without a driver, in Nice or Cannes at any rate; no doubt the system will be extended. It is advisable to have an R.A.C. licence, as otherwise there are formalities to be gone through which take three or four days. (See Appendix.)
  If you are returning after the middle Februay, it is wise to book the necessary places in the train to a fortnight before. This can be done at the station–Bureau des Renseignements in the larger stations–for the ordinary trains; and for trains de luxe, either at the local office of the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons Lits, or at a tourist agency.
  With regard to tipping in hotels, as rule ten per cent. is added to the bill. If not, the best way is to distribute it weekly.

The Riviera in Summer

  Every year more and more visitors come to the Riviera in summer. There is no drawback to a visit at any time between April and November, except the mosquitoes, which are no worse than in many parts of the south of England, though I confess that they are partial to fresh blood. It is tropically hot during the middle of the day in July and August, but the early mornings are perfect, and the evening hours generally pleasant; I have felt the heat far more at night in England during hot spells than I have ever done on the Riviera. But the climate is far from bracing; there is a good deal of close weather, when the clouds hang on the mountains; and in May-June occasional visitations from sirocco, the enervating south-west wind that brings Sahara dust and deposits it in a fine layer over everything. Nevertheless, our summer visitors seem to enjoy themselves, and most of them profess the intention of coming again; some even become so enthusiastic that they buy land and build bungalows, as I hear Mr. Gilbert Frankau and Miss Lillah McCarthy have done lately. Certainly, when the summer is cold and wet at home, it may be worth while to undergo the discomfort of a long journey for the sake of the certainty of fine weather, of being able to luxuriate in a really warm sea and bask blissfully on the shingle for half the day, filling in the early morning and evening hours with tennis or a run in a motor-car or motor-boat, and dancing in the open air o’ nights. These things are rendered all the more enjoyable by the absence of a crowd; when in Deauville or Dinard it is hardly possible to get a room, you will find a welcome and plenty of choice on the Riviera.  Some of the best hotels are open in all the larger places, and in the smaller places west of Cannes more accommodation is available than in the winter. Rates are about two-thirds of the winter rates, as a rule, and the temptations to spend money being limited, a holiday would cost less than in England if it were not for the railway fare.
  If I were going to the Riviera between June and September, and wanted a quiet time, I should choose one of the smaller places between Hyères and Cannes, or St. Raphaël; but those who do not object to a relaxing climate might do much worse than Juan-les-Pins, which has the advantage of being close to Nice, where there are always some evening entertainments.
  Of the other winter centres, Hyères, Nice, Beaulieu, and Menton are (from my point of view) too hot, and at none of them is the bathing really good. In May-June and September-November I should unhesitatingly choose Monte Carlo because of its comparative liveliness. The casino goes on all the year round; both the Hôtel de Paris and the Café de Paris are open, and the casino orchestra plays afternoons and evenings on the Terrace, so that in the centre of the life of the place there is little difference. The tennis courts at La Festa are open as usual, and nine holes of the golf course at Mont Agel. The bathing is not very good  because there is no beach, and because there is no beach, and because the water is none too clean at Larvotto, the official bathing-place; but the latter defect may be remedied when the new Country Club is open, for those who can afford the summer subscription.
  There is one through train (Calais-Méditerranée) daily from May 15th to November 15th, and in this all baggage is examined en route (in the train). Next best is the eleven a.m. from Victoria (first and second class). But by this or any other train (except the Calais – Méditerranée) it is necessary to be careful as to where the Customs examination takes place. Avoid having it at Marseilles if you can, because there the luggage is turned out of the train in which you are travelling and carried about a quarter of a mile away, whither you have to follow it; before the examination is concluded your train has left as a rule, which means that you have to spend most of the day at Marseilles (rather hotter than the puit of Tophet in July-August) and don’t get to your destination till night.
  (NOTE.–When coming to Monte Carlo one can secure the examination being at Calais–where there is usually plenty of time–by registering to Monaco; this comes to the same thing on arrival, no part of Monte Carlo being more than fifteen minutes’ drive from Monaco station.)
  Don’t trust the time-tables as to there being a restaurant-car on any train southward from Paris (except the Calais–Méditerranée); bring a tea-basket with you and be prepared to grab things from the buffets at the Gare de Lyon and at Marseilles, or you may go foodless.


  The hotels listed are chiefly those which quote a minimum price not over frs. 100 (see Chapter X.), the price being indicated in brackets. There are, of course, many others, and as to boarding-houses, comparatively few of them quote.
  Except for some special reason, I have not listed hotels among restaurants, because it goes without saying that a meal can always be obtained, and all but the very expensive put up a menu outside; similarly in regard to the luxe hotels and dancing–it may be taken for granted.
  The figures in brakets following the names of restaurants represent the fixed price for lunch, or lunch and dinner (see Chapter VI.). Occasionally I have mentioned specialities.
  The Hôtel des Postes among the addresses is, of course, the General Post Office; hotels similarly called are always de la Poste.


  About 25 hours from London. From Toulon about 50 minutes.


  The Costebelle Hotels (three, large) under the personal management of the proprietor, have a long-established reputation of all-round excellence. The situation is ideal.


  Chateaubriand, Grimm’s Park, Iles d’Or (60-80). Continental, Metropole, Ambassadeurs (45). Du Casino, Des Etrangers, Hesperides, Paris, De La Poste, Suisse, Beau-Sejour (35-40).

  The Golf Hotel is some distance off; admirably situated.


  Mimosas, Montclair (35-40), Esperance.
  Among the Boarding Houses, which are numerous, the Pension Mireille and La Roseraie, both in the town, have been recommended to me.

  BATHING.–At Almanarre (motor-bus).
  MORNING WALK.–Up through the Old Town, out by the Porte de la Souquette, left, then right, to the Hill of La Potence.
  APERITIF.–Maison Dorée, Av. Gambetta.
  RESTAURANTS.–Maison Dorée (18). Marquis, same street and price (Vin de la Croix). Castel-Pomponia at Almanarre.
  TEA ROOMS.–Victoria, Av. Des Iles d’Or. Restaurant de l’Avenue.
  COCKTAILS.–Grimm’s Bar, Av. De Belgique.
  GOLF.–The Hyères Club (in connection with the Golf Hotel). November 10th-May 30th. 18 holes, 5,200 yards. Flat and open. Day, frs. 40; week , frs. 170; month, frs. 375-400; season, frs. 700.
  The Costebelle Club (in connection with The Costebelle Hotels). October 20th-May 1st. 18 holes. 4,805 yards. Part flat, part undulated. Close to the sea. Rates about the same.
  TENNIS.–4 courts at the Golf Hotel. Week, frs. 85; month, frs. 175; season, frs. 350.
  5 courts at the Costebelle Hotels. Rates about the same.
  CROQUET.–6 lawns at the Golf Hotel. The rates are the same as for Tennis.
  8 lawns at the Costebelle Hotels.
  BOWLING.–At the Golf Hotel. Frs. 150 for the season.
  SQUASH RACKETS.–At the Costebelle Hotels.
  The charges given above apply to visitors who are not staying at the hotels to which the clubs belong: those who are pay less.
  Tennis courts are also being constructed in the town. Apply to M. SAMARAN, Société Régionale, 23 Av. Des Iles d’Or.
  CASINO.–Bd. St. Antoine. Day, frs. 5; week, frs. 30; month, frs. 50.; season, frs. 150. Theatre and cinema. Dance teas. Suppers. Galas on Saturdays

Special Entertainments.

  Carnival Processions.
  Battle of Flowers.
  Art Exhibition.
  Motor Trials.
  Horse Racing at Easter.

   SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Giens. Ile de Porquerolles. Solliè (lunch at the Maurin des Maures).
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–Calley of the Gapeau to Montrieux and on to St. Maximin. The “Circuit des Maures.”

Useful Notes.

  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–In the Casino building.
  BRITISH BANKS.–The English Bank (R. J. Corbett and Co.), Place des Palmiers. Crawford’s Bank, Avenue des Iles d’Or.
  HOTEL DES POSTES.–4 Av. De Belgique.
  AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–Bureau P.L.M., 1 Av. Gambetta
  ENGLISH CHEMISTS.–Colet, Av. Alphonse-Denis. Pustel, Av. Des Iles d’Or
  BRITISH VICE-CONSUL.–Mr. Jesse Hook, at the English Bank. 10-12 and 2-4.
  CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.–At both the British Banks.
  ENGLISH DOCTOR.–W.P. Biden, 2 Av. De la Victoire.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–Av. Godillot. 10.30. Also one at Costebelle.
  PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH.–South side of the Casino grounds. 10.15
  TURKISH BATH.–Hammam, Boul. Carnot.
  LUXE-TABAC.–4 Av. Iles d’Or.


  45 minutes from Hyères (Chemin de Fer de Provence).
  An old town among woods, two miles from the sea. Mild climate (similar to Hyères).
  One hotel, the Belle Vue, and a pension, the Beau-Site.


  One hour from Hyères on the same line. On the sea. A good beach. Woods.


  Aiguebelle (40). Iles d’Or, Grand (30-35). Mediterranée, Monte-Carlo, Terminus (20-25).
  PENSIONS. – Villa Louise, Les Hirondelles, Le Mimosas.


  Two hours from Hyéres on the same line. A fine beach. Pine woods.


Surmer (60, quite a good restaurant. Grand, Lido, Normandy (45). De La Plage, Des Bains (40). De Cavalaire (30).
  PENSIONS.–Beasuséjour (45). Martel (30).
  At La Croix, a mile-and-a-half from the sea, De Pardigon (45).
  NOTE.–This place must not be confused with Cavaliére, a hamlet near Le Lavandou, which has a halt on the line.


  3 hours 20 minutes from Hyères and 2 hours 35 minutes from St. Rafaël by the same lines.
  (See Chapter II.) The old town is very picturesque, and the surroundings charming.


  Sube, De La Plage, Coste (35). Sporting Club, Mediterranée (30). Augier, Fernand (25).

     The Local Fetes (“Les Bravades”), May 16th-18th,  date back about 400 years, and have retained more of the Provençal character than most of these affairs.


  About 1 hour from St. Rafaël, on the same line. (See Chapter II.).
  CASINO.–Open December 15th-May 1st and July 1st-September 15th. Entrance frs. 3. Restaurant (20).

  The Bathing Establishment is commodious and well fitted up.


  Grand Hotel Beauvallon (100), Grand, Mimosas, Commerce (35), Splendid (30). Terminus, Du Midi (20).
  PENSION.–Charles (25).
  MUEBLE.–De La Plage.
  RESTAURANTS.–Hermitage (18); pâté de gibier. Miramar (same price).


  About 23½ hours from London. 1 hour from Cannes. (See Chapter II.)

Hotels and Boarding Houses.

  Beau Rivage, Continental, De La Plage (60). Grand, Du Parc (50). Des Myrtes, Hermitage, Algues, Villa Lafayette, Villa Joyeuse, Les Orangers, Villa Alice (40). Central, Moderne, Select (35). Touring, Azur (30).
  MUEBLES.–Excelsior, Terminus, Mouvel.
  Du Golf (80). Coirier (70). Des Anglais (50).

  BATHING.–Next to the Réserve Restaurant.
  MORNING WALK.–Along the front to the Santa Lucia park; may be prolonged to Bouloris and back by the upper road.
  APERITIF.–Café des Bains.
  RESTAURANTS.–Casino, Réserve (25). The Rabbit Bar (steaks).
  TEA ROOMS.–Taylor’s, rue Charles-Gounod. Court, rue Jules-Barbier.
  COCKTAIL.–Rabbit Bar (Rabbit cocktail, very dry, frs. 6).
  DANCE-DINNER.–Casino (30). Hotel Beau-Rivage.
  GOLF.–At Valescure, in connection with the Golf Hotel. 3 miles. Motor-bus from the station yard. Day, frs. 30; week, frs. 130; month, frs. 330; season, (December 1st-April 30th), frs. 600. 18 holes. 4,950 yards. Bogey 74. A hill course. Restaurant at the Dormy House, and 16 bedrooms. Board.
  TENNIS.–6 courts at the Golf Club. Day, frs. 20; week, frs. 70; month, frs. 200; season, frs. 450. 4 courts at the St. Raphaël L.T.C., Av. Des Chevrefeuilles. Week, frs. 50; month, frs. 75; season, frs. 375. Apply to W. F. King (see below).
  SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Fréjus (ruins of a Roman arena, aqueduct, etc.). Mont Vinaigre.
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–Cannes, via Fréjus and les Adrets, return by the coast road (“Corniche d’Or.”). The “Circuit des Maures.”
  CASINO.–December 15th-April 15th. Day, frs. 2.50c; week, frs 10; month, frs. 30; season, frs. 80. Also open Jul 20th-September 20th (frs. 50) Sliding roof. Luminous dancing-floor. American bar. Theatre. Pleasant little cinema. Gala dinners Tuesdays and Fridays (40-50).

Special Entertainments.

  Battle of Flowers.
  Venetian Fête.
  Tennis tournaments, February and early April.

  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–In the station square.
  BRITISH BANK.–W.F. King, rue Charles Gounod.
  HOTEL DES POSTES.–Rue Charles Gounod.
  AUTO-CAR.–W.F. King, Bruère Meynard, Garage des Bains.
  ENGLISH CHEMIST.–Daumas, 3 rue Charles Gounod.
  CIRCULATING LIBRARY.–Papeterie Parisienne, rue Charles Gounod.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–St.John’s Av. Des Chevre-feuilles. All Saints, at Valescure.


  15-20 minutes from St. Raphaël, on the main line. 30-40 minutes from Cannes.
  (See Chapter II.)


  Roches Rouges (50). Camp Long, Du Littoral (35). Rastel (25).


  About 30 minutes from either St. Raphaël or Cannes.
  (See Chapter II.)


  Esterel (60). Reserve (50). Gare, Lou Roucas (40).


  20 minutes from Cannes by rail, 35 by motor-bus. Breezier than Agay or Le Trayas. Beach. Specially good fishing. Its summer claim is that there are no mosquitoes.
  Four or five hotels.


  15 minutes from Cannes by rail and 30 by motor-bus.
  Several hotels.


  24 hours from London. 45 minutes from St. Raphaël or Nice by the faster trains. From Nice by Auto-Mail, 1¼ hours (frs. 15).


  On or just off the front: Edouard VII., Suisse (100). Royal (80). Augusta (50). De La Croisette (45). Londres (40). Pavillon Royal, De La Poste, meublés.

  The parts of the town specially referred to in Chapter II. Are :–
Route de Fréjus and Quartier du Riou: Pavillion (90). Canisy, Belle Plage (50).  Château La Tour, Château St. Georges, Orangers (45). Square (40). Soleil d’ Azur (35).
  Collne de la Croix: Excelsior (70). Neva (50).
  Quartier du Petit Juas: Campestra (80). Ermitage, Volubilis (35).
  Quartier St. Nicolas: Alsace – Lorraine (recommended). Bristol (80). Castelflor (50). Lycklama.
  Quartier La Peyrière: St. Paul (60). Belvedere (35). Farther on, the Pension La Garde (45).
  Quartier Montfleury: Geneve, Richelieu (50). St. Dizier (45). Petit Paradis (30).
  Quartier Les Gabres: Beau-Sejour (80). Windsor (70). St. Charles (65).
  MEUBLES.–Cavendish, Bd. Carnot, the smartest on the Riviera. Double room with bathroom, frs. 60-80. Close to station, Univers, Touringm and half-a-dozen commercial hotels.

  At Le Cannet (tram, 15 minutes): Grande-Bretagne (90). Astoria (60). Des Anges, Roches Blanches (50). Heliotrope (45). Pension Rachel (38).

  BATHING.–Bains de la Croisette, opposite the Carlton. Aux Flots Bleus, Promenade du Midi.
  APERITIF.–Achino’s, in the Galeries Fleuries. Open in summer.
  RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Ambassadeurs (35). Armenonville. Réserve de la Croisette.
  Second Division: Café de Paris (30). Rotisserie de la Reine Pedauque, Galeries Fleuries. Relais, rue des Serbes; quaintly fitted up in the style of a Provençal tavern; fritto misto. Oustalet, rue St. Honoré (similar; mixed grills). La Cigogne, rue des Belges (Alsatian dishes and Strasbourg beer). Robert’s, rue des Serbes (poky but good cooking).
  Third Division: Select, Bd. Lorraine (wine included; recommended); Coq d’Or, rue des Serbes; Chez Guy, rue Maréchal-Pétain; all (12).
  MILK COFFEE.–Marret,Place des Iles.
  TEA ROOMS.–London House, Square Merimée (the best tea rooms on the Riviera; crumpets). Achino’s.
  DANCE-TEAS.–Casino Hall (5). Ambassadeurs (15-25). Armenonville. La Gondola, in the Sporting building (15). Aux Flots Bleus.
  COCKTAILS.–Rendezvous, rue Bivouac-Napoléon.
  DANCE – DINNERS. – For exhibition dances: Ambassadeurs, Armenonville, Hôtel Majestic. To dance: Carlton.
  CABARETS.–La Gondola, Casanova.
  DANCINGS.–Monico, rue Maréchal-Pétain. Aux Flots Bleus.
  TENNIS.–Clubs open to all visitors: Cannes L.T.C., 17 courts; New Courts L.T.C., 11 courts; Carlton L.T.C., 8 courts; Métropolie L.T.C., 6 courts; Tennis Carnot, 4 courts.
  (NOTE.–The Carlton L.T.C., though connected with the Hotel, belongs to the Burke family.)
  Clubs more or less confined to guests at the hotels to which they belong: Beau-Site L.T.C., 7 courts; Provence L.T.C., 6 courts; Californie L.T.C., 6 courts; Gallia L.T.C., 5 courts.
  GOLF.–(1) Cannes Golf Club, at Mandelieu. 5 miles. Motor-bus from the Hôtel de Ville. A car costs frs. 60-100. November 15th-April 30th. Two courses: 18 holes, 6,083 yards, Bogey 80; 9 holes, 2,600 yards. Flat, alluvial soil, river, good lies. Season, frs. 650; month, frs. 350; week, frs. 150; day, frs. 30. The issue of tickets for short periods is usually suspended after January 1st.
  (2) The Country Club, Mougins. 4-5 miles beyond Le Cannet (about 500 feet above sea-level). 18 holes, 6,063 yards, Bogey 69. Open November-April. Associate-members pay frs. 1,000 for the season, and can invite one guest per day at a green-fee of frs. 100.
  POLO.–At Mandelieu. Tram or motor-bus from the Hôtel de Ville. Usually at 3, and frs. 20 for entrance.
  SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Iles St. Marguérite (see Chapter III.) and St. Honorat. From the harbor front (Casino end), at 10, 11 and 2. Return for lunch, or about 4. Luncheon on Ste. Marguérite at the Masque de Fer (22); tell them when you land.
  Miramar, in the Esterel: luncheon at the Pomme de Pin.
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See under St. Raphaël and Nice.
  CASINO.–Admission to the hall for concerts, etc. (see Chapter VII.): day, frs. 5; season, frs. 150. Including admission to the Salles de Jeu: week, frs. 50; month, frs. 150; season, frs. 500. Open December 15th-April 15th. Musical performances every afternoon at 3.30–Vocal and instrumental concerts, selections from operas in costume, ballets, etc. Classical concerts on Fridays. Dramatic operatic performances on most evenings in the theatre, and matinées on Sundays (occasionally on other days).
  CASINO D’ETE (provisionally in the Cercle Nautique on the Croisette). May 1st-October 30th.
  THEATRE.–Sporting, in the rue des Belges. Comedy, revue and varieties. This also has a gaming-licence, and there are Baccara and Boule Rooms.

Special Entertainments.

  Carnival Processions.
  Battles of Flowers.
  Venetian Fête, about the end of February.
  Concours des Enfants–an exhibition of competitive games and dancing by children on the Plage du Midi. Charming to watch.
  Motor Show and Trials.
  Fancy Dress Balls at the Cercle Nautique.
  Yacht Racing.
  Flower Show, just before Easter. Illuminations and fireworks.
  International Football Match, at Easter.
  Fête Nautique, at Easter.
  Horse-Racing, on the flat, over the sticks, and trotting, Two meetings: (1) last week in January and first fortnight in February; (2) early March. The principal events are on Sundays.
  Provençal Fête at Le Cannet, first Sunday in April. Country costumes.

Tennis Tournaments.

  Mid-December, at the Carlton L.T.C.
  About the end of December, at the Beau-Site L.T.C.
  Second week in January, at the New Courts L.T.C.
  Third week in January, at the Gallia L.T.C.
  Last week in January, at the Métropole L.T.C.
  Second week in February, at the Carlton L.T.C.
  Third week in March, at the Cannes L.T.C.
(Championship of the Riviera).
  Last week in March, at the Beau-Site L.T.C. (Cannes Championship).

Saturdays, frs. 2.50c
  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–In the Hôtel de Ville.
  BRITISH BANKS.–Barclays, 7 rue Maréchal Foch.
Lloyd’s National Provincial, 2 Place des Iles.
  HOTEL DES POSTES.–Rue Bivouac Napoléon.
  COOK’S.–3 rue Maréchal-Foch.
  AUTO-CARS AND AUTO MAILS.–Auto-Riviera cars may be picked up in front of the Casino. Bureau P.L.M., 4 La Croisette. Brighton Agency, 5 Square Merimée.
  ENGLISH CHEMIST.–British Pharmacy, 5 rue Félix-Faure. Ginner and Co., 40 rue d’Aintibes.
  BRITISH VICE CONSUL.–Mr. J. G. Taylor, 7 rue Maréchal-Foch. 10-12 and 2-4.
  CIRCULATING LIBRARY.–The Lounge, rue des Etats-Unis.
  ENGLISH DOCTOR.–Dr. R. Browne Carthew, Hôtel Wagram.
  ENGLISH CHURCHES.–St. Paul’s, Bd. D’Italie. 11. Christ Church, Route de Fréjust. 10.30
  MOTOR-CARS (for hire without chauffeur).–E.R.V.A., 125 rue d’Antibes. Mora, 2 rue Georges-Clemenceau. Garage Lafayette, 4 Route d’Antibes. (See under Nice.)
  TABAC-LUXE.–Rue Bivouac Napoléon. Rue Félix Faure.


  10 minutes from Cannes and 40 from Nice by train. Rain vanishes quickly owing to the porous soil. Milder climate than Cannes. Naval anchorage.
  Several hotels and pensions (30-35).


  15-20 minutes from Cannes and 40-50 from Nice by train.
  (See Chapter II.)


  Grand, Welcome (50). Graziella, Miramar, Splendid, Windsor (40). Alexandra, La Plage (35). Reserve (35).
  PENSIONS.–Alba, Azurea, Beau – Sejour, Magali, Mimosas, Montout, La Roseraie (35). Aiguilly, Hermitage, Louise, Petit Paradis (30). Henri Quatre, Les Palmiers (25).
  MORNING WALK.–Round the cape.
  APERTIF.–Café de Paris, Av. Amiral-Courbet. At Antibes, Café Glacier.
  RESTAURANTS.–La Fregate (Casino) (25). Jack, opposite the Pinède. Brasserie Chazel, Av. De la Gare. At Antibes, Français, rue James-Close.
  TEA ROOMS.–Martin, opposite Casino. English Tea Room, Av. De la Gare. On the cape, Pavillon Eden-Roc.
  COCKTAIL.–Frederic’s Bar.
  DANCE-DINNERS, CABARET.–Auberge Du Pin Doré.
  GOLF.–At St. Véran (Cagnes-sur-Mer). See under Nice. Tram, about 20 minutes.
  TENNIS.–Juan-les-Pins L.T.C., route des Sables. 4 courts.
  CASINO.–Moderate charges for admission. Theatre. Cinema. Gala dinners, etc. Open in summer.
  SHORT EXCURSIONS.–St. Paul, and Vence, both by train. See under Nice.
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See under Nice.

Special Entertainments.

  Battle of Flowers in February and about Easter.
  Venetian Fête, Illuminations, etc., about Easter.
  Yacht Racing.
  Creditable efforts are being made to enliven the summer season by similar fêtes (July-September).
  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Station square.
  HOTEL DES POSTES.–Av. De l’Esterel.
  AUTO-CARS.–Guttin, opposite Casino.
  AUTO-MAILS. Brighton Agency, opposite Casino.
  CIRCULATING LIBRARY.–The English Library, Av. Vilmorin.
  LUXE-TABAC.–Buonfils, Av. de la Gare.


  About 30 minutes from either Cannes or Nice by train.
  A more bracing climate than Juan-les-Pins.
  About 10 hotels (35-20).
  Quite a good excursion centre for short excursions by train, tram and motor-bus.
  (NOTE.–The pronunciation of the name of this place on English lips is apt to lead to confusion with Cannes. Cagnes is Kan-yer, making the first syllable soft and cutting the second very short. Cannes is simply Kann, with the nn sound crisply distinct.)


  25 hours from London. 45 minutes from Monte Carlo by train or Auto-Mail (frs. 10).
  TAXIS.–At the station and in the Place Masséna. The fares are too low–from fr. 1.50c. (3d. !)–and consequently the chauffeurs don’t put the flag down. Insist on it before starting. They are entitled to 25 per cent. more than is shown, and a tip of another 10 per cent. or so is usual.
  THE TRAMWAY CENTRE is the Place Messéna (except for Cimiez: Rue Hôtel des Postes).



  Westminster (100). Mediterranée (90). Polonia (70). Petrograd (60). Princes (45).


  Angleterre (80).
  MEUBLES.–Du Cercle, Claridge’s, Volnay.

(Central but fairly quiet.)

  O’Connor (90). Scribe (100). Astoria, Des Palmiers, Splendid (75). Atlantic, Queen’s, Busby, Windsor (60-65). Ariane, Edward’s Palace, Berlioz, St. George’s, Baie des Anges, Excelsior, Richmond (45-50). Concordia, Côte d’Azur, Gounod, Lisbonne, Du Louvre, Trianon, Wyh, Londres, St. Ermin’s, Interlaken (35-40). Français, Des Nations, Castille (25-30).
  MEUBLES close to the Station.–London, Madrid, St. Louis, Trocadero, Frank, St. Gothard, Serraire, Normandy, Ostende, Durante, Lorraine.

(Central but fairly quiet.)

  De Nice, De La Paix (70-80). Des Empereurs (65). Albion, Alexandra, Langham, Luxor, De Paris, Prince de Galles, Beaulieu, Suede, d’Europe (45-50). Bristol, Central (30-35).
  MEUBLES.–Les Camélias (recommended), Vendôme, Crillon, Rivoli, Mulhouse, De La Poste, Lepante, Midland, New York, Villa Georges, Raimbaldi, Amirauté, Richelieu, Sibill’s, Strasbourg.


  Winter Palace (100). Hermitage, Regina (80-85). Alhambra (60).
  PENSIONS.–Viennoise, British (35-40).

   WEEKLY PAPER.–The Côte d’Azur. Saturdays. Frs. 4.
  BATHING.–Opera Plage, Quai des Etats – Unis Grande Bleue, beyond the Negresco.
  APERITIF.–Savoy Café, next to the Ruhl. Negresco Plage, opposite the hotel.
  RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Negresco. Ruhl. Réserve, on the point beyond the harbor (especially for luncheon; fish; car from the Place Masséna (end of the Av. de Verdun). For dinner, Maxim’s, Le Perroquet, facing the gardens, Place Masséna.
  Second Division: For a French style luncheon: Municipal Casino (35). Français, rue Gioffredo.
  Abassadeurs (Savoy Hotel. Regence Royale (Av. de la Victoire). For fish specialities (in the open): La Pergola, Bregaillon Nicois (Bouillabaisse), Faverio (Oysters). Aux Colonies (18): all at the eastern end of the Promenade. Grills: Queen’s Silver, Av. Victor-Hugo. Caressa, rue Maréchal-Pétain. Tavernes (Alsation dishes and Strasbourg beer, cold meat–assiette anglaise, frs. 5): Cigognes d’Alsace, Brasserie Excelsior, Carillon, all in the rue Gioffredo: Teverne Alsacienne, 42 rue Hôtel des Postes: Renaissance, 3 rue Alsace-Lorraine (genuine Pilsener).
  Third Division: Auguste, 16 rue Emma (16); omelettes. Bœuf à la Mode, 1 rue Paul Déroulède. Chapon Fin, Bd. Rambaldi (recommended): d’Italie, 9 rue Paul Déroulède; Taverne Gothique, rue d’Italie; all (10). For real Niçois cooking: Bottau, 1 rue Colonna d’Istria in the Old Town.

  TEA ROOMS.–Scotch Tea House, Jardin Albert Premier. Vogade, under the arcade on the west side of the Place Masséna (French pastry). Marquise de Sévigné, 16 Av. de Verdun. Irish House, 15 rue de France. Napolitain, 25 Av. de la Victoire (ices).
  DANCE-TEAS.–For the entertainment: Negresco, Ruhl, Le Perroquet, Hotel Miramar (see above). To dance: Hotel Majestic, Bd. de Cimiez, Casino Municipal (12), Imperator, 39 Promenade des Anglais (under-ground). Cheaper, Casino de la Jetée.
  COCKTAILS.–Vogade (see under Tea Rooms). Cintra, almost next door.
  DANCE-DINNERS as for Teas, less the last two and plus Maxim’s.
  CABARETS.–Maisonette des Comédiens Russes, rue St. François-de-Paule (dinner, 9 p.m.). Maxim’s. Le Perroquet. Kasbek, 16 rue Dalpozzo. Imperator. Chat Noir (see page 58).
  DANCINGS (numerous).–Aly, La Féria, Jardin de Ma Sœur, and the Brasserie Excelsior (cheaper), are all in the rue St. Michel (Pl. Masséna).
  GOLF.–At Cagnes-sur-Mer, 7 miles. Train 20 minutes. Tram 40 minutes (at the hour), and motor-bus (25 minutes) from the Place Masséna. Day, frs. 30; month, frs. 250; season, frs. 50. 18 holes. 5,800 yards. Seaside, on the flat.
  TENNIS.–Nice L.T.C., Parc Impérial. Trams 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8. Month, frs. 250 ; season, frs. 500, plus tax (10 per cent.). 21 courts. Dance-Tea.
  CASINO MUNICIPAL.–Place Masséna, old-fashioned but roomy. Entertainments in the hall every afternoon and evening. Theatre (frs. 8-12). Cinema. Admission from frs. 2 (day: hall), to frs. 200 for the season (December-April) including the Salles de Jeux.
  CASINO DE LA JETEE.–On the Promenade, is cheaper.
  MUNICIPAL OPERA.–Rue François-de-Paule (frs. 10-40).
  THEATRES.–Eldorado, 29 rue Pastorelli. Variétés, 5 Bd. Victor-Hugo. Nouveau, 2 rue St. Michel. All central. Renaissance (bright shows occasionally), 54 rue de la République. Théatre Guignol, opposite the Gare du Sud.
  CINEMA.–Rialto, rue de Rivoli (side of the Negresco) is clean, comparatively airy, and comfortable.

Special Entertainments.

  Carnival Processions, Illuminations, Battles of Flowers, Fancy-Dress Balls, etc., in the fortnight preceding Ash Wednesday.
  Battles of Flowers early in Lent and Mid-Lent (Mi-Carême).
  Tennis Tournaments, first week in January, second week in Feb. (Championships), second week in March.
  Race Meetings: steeplechasing, on the flat, and trotting. Spread over January and March.
  International Horse Show. April.
  Motor Show. January.
  Dog Show. March.

  SHORT EXCURSIONS.–Vence, and St. Paul (lunch at the hotel on the left), both interesting old towns; Grasse; tram. Falicon (tram to Cimiez terminus and walk, return by the Gorge de St. André and tram).
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–Among the best are: Menton by the Grande Corniche and return by the Corniche Inférieure. Gorge de Loup. Gorges du Cians and De Daluis. Tenda. St. Martin-Vesubie.
  NOTE.–There are winter sports (ski-ing, etc.) at Peira-Cava, which can also be reached by these cars.
  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Avenue de Verdun, rue Paradis.
  HOTEL DES POSTES.–Place Wilson.
  BOOKSELLER.–Paraf (“Le Coin de Nice”), at the corner of the rue Honoré-Sauvan and the rue Maccarani (for English and American books).
  BRITISH BANKS.–Barclay’s, 7 Promenade des Anglais. Lloyd’s National Provincial, 7 Jardin Albert Premier.
  BRITISH CONSUL.–Mr. J. Wiseman Keogh: Vice-Consul, Mr. C. J. Beale. 95 rue de France. 10-12, and 2.30-4.30 except Saturdays.
  U.S. CONSUL.–52, Bd. Victor-Hugo. 9-12.
  COOK’S.–13 Promenade des Anglais.
  AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–Auto-Riviera, 12 Av. de Verdun. Brighton, 32 rue Hôtel des Postes. Melchior, Av. Félix-Faure.
  ENGLISH CHEMISTS.–Riviera Pharmacy, no. 68, and Mercier, no. 16, Avenue de la Victoire.
  CIRCULATING LABRARIES.–Lounge, 16 rue Maréchal-Joffre. Universal, 1 rue Croix-de Marbre.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–12 Place Alziary-de-Malausséna.
  AMERICAN CHURCH.–21 Bd. Victor-Hugo.
  MOTOR CARS without chauffeur.–Bristol, 17bis, Av. de la Victoire (in the Passage). Day frs. 250; week frs. 1,200, etc.; and pay your petrol (insurance is included), E.R.V.A., 71 Bd. Gambetta. S.A.V.A., 2 rue du Congrès. Auber, 29 rue Verdi.
  TABAC-LUXE.–No. 11, and no. 28, Av. de la Victoire.
  TURKISH BATH.–21 rue de Buffa.


  10 minutes by train and 30 by tram from Nice. 30 min. by train and 1 hour by tram from Monte Carlo. The railway station is inconveniently situated. Old town most picturesque (and clean). Naval anchorage.

Hotels and Boarding Houses.

  Welcome (on the sea-level), Réserve, Regence, St. Donat, Bananiers (30). Freddy, Ker Maria, Family House (25).
  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Pavillon de l’Octroi (where you get off the tram).
  Naval Battle of Flowers, usually in March.


  About 50 minutes by tram from Nice. Station, Beaulieu.
  (See Chapter II.)


  Parc (under the management of its English proprietor). Grand Hotel du Cap Ferrat (dance-teas).
  PENSIONS.–Gypta, La Mascotte, Mon Loisir.
  HOTELS AT PONT ST. JEAN.–Mont-Fleuri, Suisse.
  RESTAURANTS.–Namouna (luncheon frs. 50-60 in all; eels). A La Vraie Bouillabaisse (cheaper). At Pont-St.-Jean: Réserve de St. Jean.


  15 minutes by train and 50 by tram from Nice. 30 minutes by train and 40 by tram from Monte Carlo.
  (See Chapter II.)


  Bristol (about 80). Des Anglais, Beaulieu, Beau-Sejor, Bedford, Bond’s, Empress, Hermitage, Londres, Metropole, Royal, Victoria (from 40).
  PENSIONS.–Hermosa (recommended), Alpes, Belle-Vue, France, Fresia, Marcellin, De Londres, Printania, Flora, Le Reve, Primerose, Henri Quatre (from 25).
  RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Réserve de Beaulieu. Cheaper: Berlugana, Kid’s Auguste, Bellevue, Caramello, Réserve Royal, Réserve de St. Jean.
  Tennis Tournament in February. The courts belong to the Hôtel Bristol.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–Ravin de la Murta. 10.45.


  30 minutes from Nice or Monte Carlo by train. 35 minutes from Nice or Monte Carlo by train. 35 minutes from Monte Carlo and 1 hour from Nice by tram.
  Lovely bay, but nowhere to walk without climbing. The old town, which clings to the summit of a peak about 1,000 feet high, is most picturesque seen from below or from the Moyenne Corniche.


  At the station: Terminus. There are two small ones at the foot of the old town, and a restaurant (Bellevue).


  20 minutes from Monte Carlo by train or motor-bus. The station is inconveniently situated.
  (See Chapter II.)


  Eden (luxe). Soleil, Cap-Fleuri, Laurens, (30-40).
  PENSION.–Villa Marie-Louise.


 About 25½ hours from London. See Nice and Menton. Funicular railway to La Turbie: the station is in the Boulevard Princesse-Antoinette.


(See Chapter II.)

  Grand, Victoria, Prince de Galles, Windsor, Royal, Mirabeau, all quietly situated; Helder, Beau-Rivage (trams; the latter stands low): (90-100). Balmoral, Gallia, (quietly situated); Albion, Louvre, Masséna, Regina, Savoy, Monte Carlo Palace (one of the most comfortable hotels on the Riviera), and Alexandra, all on the tram-route: (70-80). Des Princes (low); Splendid (high); Terminus (close to station): (60). Colonies, quiet situation; Pistonatto, on the sea: (50). Crystal Palace, Sun Palace (trams); Ravel (quiet situation); Berne, Gourmets, National, all on the sea-level but behind the railway embankment: (35-40).
  MEUBLES.–Des Palmiers, Russie, both recommended. Byron, stands well. Buckingham, Richmond, Richmond, Villa Louis.
  All the above hotels are within 10 minutes’ walk of the Casino.

(See Chapter II.)

  Facing the harbor: Bristol (100). Renaissance, Monégasque (55).
  Condamine, Etrangers, Beau-Séjour (60-65). Paix, Atlantic (recommended) (50-55). Angleterre, Central, Marseille, Milan, Riva, all quietly situated; Négociants, Nice, Siècle, close to Monaco station (trams); (35-45).


  Luxe: Riviera Palace, high up, magnificient view, terrace. In the Bd. de Midi: Suisse, Olympia (50); Cosmopolitain (40); Diana (Meublé).

  BATHING.–At Larvotto. Car from the Place du Casino.
  MORNING WALKS.–The Rock. The Jardin Suspendu.
  APERITIF.–Café de Paris. Royalty, Park Palace. Restaurant St. James (see below).
  RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Ciro’s, Ambassadeurs, both in the Galerie Charles III. Riviera Palace (car from the Square).
  Second Division: Café de Paris (35-40; à la carte, First Division prices). Boulengrins, Monte Carlo Palace (25-25). Quinto’s, Av. St. Michel (keep right). Brasserie Royale, Bd. Princesse-Antoinette. Pam’s, Av. de la Costa (35). St. James, Quai de la Plaisance (anguilles Laurette and Bouchées de Valaille). Ré, by the Alexandra (oysters).
  Third Division: Le Napolitain, Bd. Princess-Antoinette. In the Avenue de la Costa: Bœuf à la Mode (15) and Charlot’s (10). In Beausoleil: Petit Riviera, Bd. de la République, Amphition, Bd. de Midi, (12). For an English-style luncheon: English Tea Lounge, 37 Bd. des Moulins (15); Bass and Guiness.
  In the Condamine the hotels in the Avenue de la Gare (see above) cater for outsiders, also the Romain; (10-12).
  On the Rock: Culoz by the Cathedral.

  TEA ROOMS.–English Tea Lounge (see above). Scotch Tea House, a few doors further on; scones. Pasquier, Av. St. Michel (French pastry, meringues, marron glacés and jellied fruits), also in the Hermitage building. Cecil’s, Grand Hotel building. Scapini, 21 Bd. des Moulins (nougat); concert.
  DANCE TEAS AND DINNERS.–For the exhibitions: Café de Paris, Ambassadeurs. To dance: Grand, Riviera Palace.
  COCKTAILS.–Royalty, Pam’s.
  CABARETS.–Carlton, Av. des Fleurs. Maxim’s, rue de la République, Beausoleil.
  DANCINGS.–Knickerbocker, under Ciro’s. Black Cat, up the steps by the Société Général. Maurice’s Bar, Bd. Princesse Antoinette.
  TENNIS.–La Festa Club. 3 courts at La Festa and 6 on the Condamine. Half-day, frs. 10; day, frs. 20; week, frs. 100; month, frs. 250; season, frs. 600. Secretary, W. G. Henley. The Country Club, St. Romain, to be open next season, is to have 20 courts (see below).
  GOLF.–At Mont Agel. (See Chapter II.) Auto-car from the Place du Casino at 9 and 9.30 (frs. 8); or by the funicular to La Turbie (9.15, 10.10, 11.45), car meets trains. 18 holes. 4,903 yards. Day, frs. 40; month, frs. 400; season, frs. 750 (may be reduced). Restaurant.
  THE COUNTRY CLUB, to be opened December, 1927, is the last word in luxury. Beside the 20 tennis courts, there are 2 for squash, covered and open swimming baths (with running water, that in the former warmed in winter). First-class restaurant. Dancing. Apply to Mr. Henley at La Festa.
  CASINO.–Admission to the Atrium and Reading Room free (a ticket is nominally necessary). Admission to the Salles de Jeu: day, frs. 10; months, frs. 100; season, frs. 250. Cercle Privé: day, frs. 40; month, frs. 200; season, frs. 500. (The “Salles de Jeu” above are the outer gaming rooms, vulgarly called the Kitchen; the “Cercle Privé” means the inner rooms).
  SPORTING CLUB.–Usually frs. 100 extra to a “Cercle Privé” ticket.
  There is also a Casino in Beausoleil. Rates low.
  CASINO THEATRE.–Mid-November to end January: Comedy (occasionally English plays), Light Opera, Ballet, special new films (20-40). End January to early April: Grand Opera (40). December and April: Serge Diaghileff’s Russian Ballet (20-40). November to April: Wednesdays, 3 p.m.: Classical Concerts (10). Occasional special concerts.
  BEAUX ARTS.–The large hall is a cinema, very lofty, clean and comfortable (5-10). In the small hall, Chamber Music on Mondays and Fridays, 3 p.m., free to holders of “Cercle-Privé” tickets. Tuesdays and Saturdays, 3 p.m., Instrumental and Vocal Concerts (10).
  BEAUSOLEIL CASINO.–Light opera, comedy revue, varieties.

Special Entertainments.

  November 11th: Illuminations.
  January: Motor Car Meet (“Rally”) and Hill Climbing Competition.
  March: Battle of Flowers. Dog Show. Motor Show and Hill Climbing Competition.
  January-February: Pigeon Shooting (if it is an entertainment). Entrance from the Terrace (10).
  National Fête (Monégasque), January 16th-17th. (See Chapter VIII.)

Tennis Tournaments.

  Third week in December.
  Early January (Club Championships).
  February (Butler Trophy and Beaumont Cup).
  Second week in April.

  SHORT EXCURSIONS.–La Turbie, by the mule-path from the end of the rue Bel Respiro. Eze, by the Moyenne Corniche, return by Eze-sur-Mer and tram or auto-mail. Roquebrune by the Bd. de la République (Beausoleil) and Varavilla (keep left); return by Cap Martin and tram, or auto-mail from behind the Riva Bella. Vistaero, by the funicular to La Turbie and walk; return by Cap Martin and as above.
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See under Nice and Menton.
  WEEKLY PAPER.–Menton and Monte Carlo News. Saturdays; frs. 3.
  BUREAU DE RENSEIGNEMENTS.–Gardens (opposite Commissariat de Police).
  BRITISH BANKS.–Barclay’s, facing the top of the Gardens (and the Casino). Lloyd’s National Provincial, 11 Bd. des Moulins.
  BUREAU DE POSTE.–Opposite the Sporting Club. Complaints have been made in the press as to the incivility and disobligingness of the officials. There is a Post Office in the Atrium of the Casino.
  NOTE.–French stamps are not valid on letters posted in the principality (nor Monégasque stamps in French territory). Anywhere up the hill-side it is wise to scrutinize the letter-box; if it has “R.F.” on it, French stamps are necessary. The only exception is as to the letter-boxes at the stations (Monte Carlo and Monaco), in which letters bearing either French or Monégasque stamps may be posted.
  BRITISH VICE-CONSUL.–Mr. G. W. Hogg, 24 Av. de la Costa (“Pam’s” building). 10-12, and 2-3 except Saturdays.
  CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.–British Library, 30 Bd. des Moulins. Month, frs. 20; two months, frs. 25, etc. English Library, Bd. Princesse Antoinette. Anglo-American Library, in the Grand Hotel building.
  COOK’s.–Crédit Lyonnais, Av. des Beaux Arts.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–Av. des Fleurs. 10.
  AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–At the Auto-Riviera Kiosque at the bottom of the upper Gardens (Place du Casino). Brighton Agency, and Melchior, under the Galerie Charles III.
  ENGLISH CHEMIST.–H. L. Hastings, 27 Bd. des Moulins. Faraut, Bd. Princesse Antoinette.
  ENGLISH DOCTOR.–Dr. Gibson, Winter Palace.
  DANCING LESSONS.–Ludo Mass, Park Palace.
  HAIRDRESSERS.–Edouard, on the harbor-front (Hôtel Bristol building). Joseph, Park Palace.
  SPECIAL sHOPS.–Lucien Lelong, alongside Savoy Hotel (west side of the Gardens). Premet, and Jean Patou, in the Galerie Charles III. Maison Lewis, in the Café de Paris building. Fanchette, 50 Bd. des Moulins (underclothing).
  LUXE-TABAC.–Café de Paris building. In the Bd. Princesse Antoinette, opposite the Rocher de Cancale. In the Condamine, near the top of the Rue Grimaldi.
  TURKISH BATH.–On the Terrace. One of the finest in Europe.


  20-25 minutes from Monte-Carlo or Menton by tram. From the station (inconveniently situated) 7 minutes to either.
  (See Chapter II.)

Hotels and Boarding Houses.

  By the tram route: Riva Bella (large). Ideal-Séjour (40-50).
  On the hillside: Mirasole, Plaza, Roche Fleurie (40-50).
  On the point of the Cape: Grand Hôtel du Cap Martin (large).
  Restaurant in the Old Town: Hostellerie, on the left just after passing through the Place de l’Ecole.
  TEA ROOMS.–Four and Twenty Blackbirds, on the tram route.


  26 hours from London. 20 minutes from Monte Carlo by train or Auto-Mail (francs 7). 45 minutes by tram.



  On the front: Regina (70). Bristol (55). Carlton, Flora (50). Stella Bella, Prince de Galles (45). Rive d’ Azur (40).
  On the main road: Imperial, which stands back, absolutely first-class in all respects (90). Astoria (50). Excelsior (45). Gay, De France (35).
  Elsewhere in the town: Orient (90). Venise (85). Mediterranée, Louvre (70). Majestic (60). Parc (55). Europe, Ambassadeurs (45). Turin (40).
  Outskirts: Mont Fleuri (80). Winter Palace, superbly situated (70). Iles Britanniques (60). National (50). Edward’s (35). Albion (30).
  The Hotel-Pension de l’Annonciate (60) has a hill-top to itself–a georgeous situation–with a funicular.


  On the front: Anglais, Britannia (60). Grand (50). Splendid (40).
  On the hillside: Particularly to be recommended are the Belle Vue, Italie and Grande Bretagne, all under the personal management of the proprietor, Mr. Churchman. New York (30).
  In different parts of the town and outskirts there are about 30 Pensions, the rates varying from 25 to 40 francs.

  BATHING.–At La Pergola, East Bay (opposite the Hôtel des Anglais). Ideal’s Bains, at the Cap Martin end of the front.
  APERTIF.–On the front: Rumpelmayer’s, at the corner of the gardens: King’s Bar, a little nearer the harbour.
  RESTAURANTS.–First Division: Amirauté, East Bay.
  Second Division: La Pergola, East Bay. Rochers Rouges, a few minutes’ walk from the tram terminus at Garavan (actually in Italy; passport necessary).
  Third Division: Hôtel de France (frs. 15); Gay (frs. 16); both in the Av. Félix Faure.
  TEA ROOMS.–Victoria (behind the Hôtel Majestic). Ronzi, west side of the Public Gardens. Engadine (“Confiserie Anglaise”), 3 Av. Félix Faure (very good tea and meringues). There are concerts at Rumpelmayer’s, and Clarence (Public Gardens, next to Barclay’s Bank).
  DANCE-TEAS.–Casino, Amirauté, La Pergola, Imperial.
  COCKTAILS.–William’s, at the corner of the Public Gardens. King’s Bar.
  DANCE-DINNERS.–The Imperial.
  CABARET.–Colin Maillard.
  DANCINGS.–Clarence, Café Glacier (Public Gardens).
  TENNIS.–Menton L.T.C., Avenue Carnot. Open to all visitors. 10 courts. 3 croquet.
  GOLF.–At Sospel (see Chapter II.), in connection with the Golf Hotel. 18 holes. 5,727 yards. Bogey 78. Day, frs. 20; week, frs. 100; month, frs. 300; season, frs. 400.
  CASINO.–Public Gardens. Mid-December-April, and Jully-September. Rates low. Theatrical performances three or four evenings a week and occasional matinées.

Special Entertainments.

  Tennis Tournaments. First weeks in January and March.
  Carnival Processions.
  Battles of Flowers.
  Yacht Racing. Second week in March.
  Fête de Nuit in the East Bay, about the same time. Illuminations and Fireworks.
  Motor Show in March.
  Fête de St. Agnès. February.

  SHORT EXCURSIONS.–A few of the best, either by carriage or afoot, are–By carriage or mule-path: Gorbio, Castellar. Mule-path: St. Agnes (lunch at the Righi). The ridge of the Annonciate (picnic). Afternoon: to the Tea Pavilion on the point of Cap Martin for the sunset (along the front, or by tram to La Plage). By carriage (frs. 40-50) or motor-bus from the Place Georges-Clémenceau at 1.30) to the Hanbury Gardens at La Mortola (garden-lovers) should not miss this); Mondays and Fridays; passport necessary.
  Walkers should get the pamphlet “Guide-Touristique Annexe” from the Syndicat d’Initiative, which contains full particulars and an admirable map of the numerous walks. It is best to keep clear of the frontier on the mountains eastward, as mistakes have been made.
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–Along the Italian coast to Bordighera, St. Remo, Alassio. Also as under Nice.
  WEEKLY PAPER.–See under Monte Carlo.
  SYNDICAT D’INITIATIVE.–Kiosque at the corner of the gardens on the front.
  BRITISH BANKS.–Barclay’s, corner of the gardens and the Av. Félix Faure. Lloyd’s National Provincial, 4, rue de la République.
  HOTEL DES POSTES.–Rue Partouneaux.
  COOK’S.–Place St. Roch.
  AUTO-CARS AND AUTO-MAILS.–Auto-Riviera, Av. de Verdun (west side of the Public Gardens).
  ENGLISH CHEMIST.–British Pharmacy, 29 Av. Félix Faure.
  BRITISH VICE-CONSUL.–Mr. Churchman, Villa Les Grottes.
  CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.–Lounge Library, No. 9, and English Library, No. 5, rue Henry-Bennett. British Library, 6 rue Prato.
  ENGLISH DOCTORS.–W. Campbell, Casa Rossa, Garavan. D. W. Samways, Villa Flavie, Av. Boyer.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–St. John’s, corner of the Public Gardens; 10.30.
  SCOTCH CHURCH.–Rue de la République; 10.30.
  TABACS DE LUXE.–34 Av. Félix Faure, and the Regence Bar, at the end of the rue Partouneaux near the Place St. Roch.

  1 hour from Cannes on a branch line (P.L.M.). (See Chapter II.)

Hotels and Boarding Houses.

Route de Magagnosc: Riva Bella, Les Chauves (45). Maraquita, Les Moulins, Les Roches Grises (30). Elise (25).
  Bd. Croët (near Station): Beausoleil (35). St. Anne (30).
  Quartier de la Courade: Val d’ Azur (30). Beaulieu, Gilette (25).
  Route de St. Vallier: Marie Louise, Les Palmiers (30).

  RESTAURANT.–Rotisserie de la Reine Pédauque.
  WALKS.–Château d’Eau. Canal de Foulon. La Marbrière. Notre Dame de Valcluse.
  ENGLISH CHURCH.–Avenue Victoria.
  AUTO-CAR EXCURSIONS.–See Cannes and Nice.
  CASINO.–December-April. Rates low. Theatrical entertainments, etc.
  MUNICIPAL THEATRE.–Chiefly comedy.

 Special Entertainments.
  Carnival Procession.
  Two Battles of Flowers.
  Local Fête.


  1½ hours from Menton by tram.
  (See Chapter II.)
  For golfers (nothing else to do but walk); see under Menton.

  Golf (recommended), De France, Carenco.

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